Four emerging designers bring some much-needed playfulness and spice to London Fashion Week AW17
Anyone for tennis? Don’t mind if I do in Roberta Einer’s world, where the balls are baby pink, the court is turquoise and the uniform consists of luxuriously crystal, sequin and embroidery-festooned 1940s silhouettes. The young Estonian designer cut her teeth at Mary Katrantzou, Balmain and Alexander McQueen and it shows in her opulent fabrics and feminine shapes. For AW17 silk satin bombers, full pleated skirts, heavy wool coats and long tiered dresses come in richly hued, Art Deco-influenced prints and embellishments. Love – Love.
Nigerian menswear talent Adebayo Oke-lawal made his LFW debut as part of the Ones To Watch showcase at Fashion Scout. Already a fixture on catwalks in Lagos and Cape Town, the one-time LVMH Prize nominee brought his A game in the form of louche, jewel-toned crushed velvet suits, tight fitting sweats, oversized floral wrap shirts and neon puffa jackets. Evolving his signature approach to androgynous tailoring using African textiles, AW17 is one of his most expressive seasons yet.
Shrimps is famed for its fun, faux fur outerwear. London College of Fashion graduate Hannah Weiland has cornered the trend for fluffy and quirky coats and stoles in girly colour combinations, or covered in cheeky motifs, since launching in 2013. This season they came long in ice white or blush pink as well as in Dalmatian and animal prints. Worn with modest PVC pinafores, dark tartan playsuits, boxy jackets and lacy layers, the collection added up to the dream wardrobe for a countryside schoolmistress.
It was like a retro disco at the Sadie Williams presentation, where tomboys tapped their Converse-clad toes on a glittering floor wearing cute and simple looks. The British designer has become known for her metallic, tactile textiles since stepping out from Central Saint Martins in 2013. For AW17, wide trousers, hoodies, neat knits and A-line skirts in primary colours and geometric prints featured enough shimmer and sparkle to attract an offer of a slow dance.