To say that young Americans are caught up in a love affair with Africa's young creative talents would be an understatement. In March, Rema's ‘Calm Down’ featuring Selena Gomez became the highest-charting song from an Africa-based lead artist in Billboard Hot 100 history. In July, Burna Boy was the first-ever African artist to sell out a stadium show in the U.S. TV from the continent, like South Africa's Fatal Seduction regularly tops Netflix watch lists and in New York City's competitive food scene, one of the hardest tables to book is at Chef Kwame Onwuachi's Tatiana, the gastronomic love letter to African and diasporic flavours. So, it's no surprise that when Brooklyn Museum debuted its Africa Fashion exhibit, people flocked.

The show offers a fresh perspective on the continent's fashion history. Unlike most previous shows in the U.S., which have focused on Africa's pre-colonial expressions, this exhibit explores the diverse output of post-colonial designers. More than just clothing, the show includes photography, video and media that prove “Africa Fashion” is a catch-all for a distinct identity that has evolved in the years since Africa divorced itself from Europe.

The exhibit debuted at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London last year before opening here. Under the curatorship of Ernestine White-Mifetu and Annissa Malvoisin, the Brooklyn exhibit is distinctly Brooklyn. As one of the leading art museums in the city that gave birth to hip hop and designer jeans, Brooklyn Museum's version is interested in helping local audiences find the connections between New York's fashion culture and Africa’s. Several pieces from the city's hottest black contemporary designers, including Studio One Eighty Nine and Busayo NYC are woven into the exhibit. And while trained eyes could spot the difference, for the average viewer, the gowns inspired by African aunties and bags influenced by Bed Stuy’s queer hangouts feel like parts of the same creative vision.

Brandon Blackwoods' metallic square-shaped purses are in the same room as milled khanga fabric from Tanzania. Christopher John Rogers' multi-coloured striped fit-faced photos are from black and white portraits taken in Senegalese dance halls. Instagramable Luar bags and floor scraping Brother Vellies shoes are placed across the hall from a full beaded ensemble from K’Tsobe by Rwandan Sarah Legrand.

"Something the curators wanted to really emphasise is that fashion is a language for culture and heritage," says Alex Warner, Senior Video Producer at Brooklyn Museum and the creator of the exhibit’s accompanying film. "There’s a lot of power in showing Africa's fashion evolution alongside the diasporas in a nuanced and empowering light. No one is painted as a victim; every creator and wearer is a champ in their own story.”

The links extended beyond clothing in the form of magazines and photographs. A display case laid issues of South Africa's Drum Magazine next to issues of America's Ebony and Jet, all-black lifestyle magazines that became important messengers for black culture during divisive times. Drum Magazine, for example, focused on the experiences of black South Africans during apartheid and the struggle for civil rights. On the other hand, Ebony and Jet showcased the achievements and triumphs of black Americans, highlighting their contributions to society despite facing discrimination and systemic racism. Yet both juxtaposed heavy topics with glossy, aspirational images of fashionable individuals, family life, celebrity interviews and more, driving home the point that struggle was only a part of the story. Alongside these seismic titles is a display of contemporary magazines including Nataal, Azeema and Native, showing how the conversation has evolved.

As you wander through the show, you're likely to hear bits of shock and awe from visitors who didn't know there was such a thing as a modern African fashion movement. Or the proud exclamations of emigrated Africans who had not seen the designers they knew and loved celebrated beyond Africa's borders until now. One attendee, who shared that he wrote for Drum in his 20s, became visibly emotional at seeing the publication being given the museum treatment.

It's no surprise that Americans are more interested in African culture than ever before. Social media and movements such as Black Lives Matter have played a role in reigniting and interest in the diversity of potential of Africa. And with the number of African immigrants living in the United States more than doubling since 2000, there is a growing understanding and appreciation of the culture.

Africans have also become more prominent in mainstream U.S. culture, with figures like South African comedian Trevor Noah and Nigerian author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie gaining significant attention. A few years ago, Beyoncés The Gift, an album accompanying the remake of The Lion King introduced mainstream audiences to afrobeats stars and standouts from other genres. Meanwhile, films like Disney’s Black Panther ushered in a new wave of Afro futurism. Unlike the generations before them who looked to traditional African crafts to strengthen and legitimise their ancestral history, younger generations are looking at modern African creativity as a gateway to a more equitable future.

“The real power of the show is helping people recognise the widespread talent across the continent and beyond,” adds Warner. “I get it. After the Civil Rights movement it was really important for Americans to show that African traditions, including clothing and art were just as important as European ones, but it also made some people overlook all of the new creations. Today’s audiences are opening up to the idea that African fashion is not just traditional garb, but includes modern couture and pieces that can compete globally.”

The exhibit truly celebrated the intersection between African and American fashion, showcasing how these two cultures have influenced and inspired one another over the years. One can only hope that it’s a reflection of last cross-cultural collaboration.

Africa Fashion is on view until 22 October 2023 at Brooklyn Museum. Plan your visit here.

Read our story from the opening of the exhibition here.