After a 30-minute drive from Grumeti Airstrip in the Western Serengeti, spent gazing at herds of zebras and wildebeest on their Great Migration, Nataal is delivered to the grand doors of Laba Grumeti Art Lodge. And as they open wide, we’re welcomed not only by two Maasai warriors in their distinctive regalia, but also by the awe-inspiring sight of Zizipho Poswa’s sculpture ‘Marie Lodge IV’ (2024). Custom made for this wild vista, the two-metre-tall bronze work, with its womanly curves, cow-like horns and warm burnished finishes, acts as an invocation to bow down to Black beauty.

“Drawing inspiration from the art of hair styles across Africa and the matriarchs in Xhosa culture, this piece is named after the stylist who has been doing my family’s hair for several years. The amount of time and passion she puts into her work deserved to be recognised,” Poswa tells us, as she stands proudly by the work. “The Maasai were on my original moodboard for the wider series (‘uBuhle boKhokho’) because of the way they use red clay in their hair. I’ve been able to explore that more with this piece and so this is a beautiful moment.”

The Cape Town-based artist’s totem now forms the centrepiece for an impressive 45-strong private collection that feeds the essence of this hill-top sanctuary. “We fell in love with Zizipho’s sculptures and before we knew it, the idea for a lodge inspired by contemporary African art took hold,” says Julie Brisson, who owns the lodge with Xavier Marie. “The authenticity of African ancestral knowledge and traditions, a reverence for the handmade and respect for nature, combined with artistic activism, imbues many of these pieces and works with heart.”

Roam around the lodge’s open deck – all clean lines, billowing canopies and natural textures – and your eyes dance across an embarrassment of riches. In the restaurant prowls Porky Hefer’s ‘John’ (2023), a lion-shaped pod with a wool-lined interior that begs you to curl up inside. In the bar nestles a cluster of Adam Birch tree sculptures that seemingly grow up and out from the floor. Beyond that, photographic self-portraiture from Zanele Maholi and Thandiwe Miriu – the former in fierce black and white, the latter in joyful textile brights – look on from the walls. And sailing us back to centre are two hand-carved canoes that have been transformed into sublime, velvet lined sofas by Jean Servais Somian.

“I know many retired fishermen near where I live in Grand Bassam. The work they do is important and these boats hold their stories,” the Ivorian designer tells us as we settle into one hull. “I buy their old canoes, their histories inspire my designs and when I finish, I invite the fisherman back and they cry happy tears.” For this artist, the boats represent his life in Africa while the plush fabrications nod to his European ties. “Each piece makes a strong and poetic statement about my own identity. So, I’m very happy to see them here in Tanzania because people from around the world will come to East Africa to see my work from West Africa. It is universal but it represents how African art connects all people across the continent. C'est magnifique!”

Seating of a different kind comes courtesy of Rich Mnisi. The South African multi-hyphenate’s ‘Ripfumel’ (2024) chairs resemble two bronze snakes curling seductively around come-hither sheepskin seats. “Some Southern African tribes celebrate snakes as ancestors, others think they are taboo. And well, my family are just scared of them. So, when I started working with the idea of snakes, it was a bit like aversion therapy,” Mnisi laughs. “It was really about playing with this idea of duality – of acceptance and rejection, of the mundane and the magical – to create a fluidity between fear and beauty.” This yin and yang is expressed through the mix of hard and soft materials, “making something inviting out of something that’s intimidating – which is just like life. When we accept the era we’re in, it feels freeing.” And what does Mnisi’s family make of his serpent-led journey that also runs through his fashion designs? “My mother gets it now. She even has a pair of snake-print shoes!”

Elsewhere, two ceramic pieces by Madoda Fani emanate a calming energy. The South African artist uses a traditional Nguni method that involves first hand-coiling and carving, then then burnishing and smoke-firing each vessel. “Back in the old days Zulu beer-pot makers would burnish them so that they could carry water – it’s a process called closing the pores,” Fani explains. “I achieve a dark lustre by rubbing the surface with a polished agate crystal pebble followed by oil.” The rounded ‘Zintle’ is reminiscent of the female form while the dynamic ‘Inqanawe’ has the feeling of a sci-fi spaceship. “Much of my work goes to collectors in the US so to have this opportunity to display these in Tanzania is a great honour,” he adds.

The lodge’s art collection is the jewel in its crown but many other delights abound in this rejuvenating space where wildnerness and wellness meet. Its series of serene tented suites are awash with locally sourced materials - teak, banana palm, onyx – and are where you can enjoy 180-degree views of Grumeti’s grassy plains from beneath your bedsheets. Why not soak in a deep copper bath under a twinkling clay chandelier? Or take dip in the infinity pool before dining on organic cuisine? Then treat yourself to a spa ritual and spend an evening gathered around the fire pit.

And when restored by the lodge’s soul-soothing luxuries, the Serengeti awaits. Dawn game drives and sundowner outings, accompanied by deeply knowledgeable guides, are rewarded with up-close encounters with mating lions, prowling cheaters, parading elephants, galloping giraffes and circling vultures. This national park’s diverse landscape is home to thousands of species, many of whom show no signs of shyness.

This setting is so majestic, it’s no wonder Marie and Brisson have made it their home. With a background in the business of interior and fashion design in France, the couple succumbed to their life-long love of East Africa by establishing Laba Laba Travel in 2021. They acquired a series of properties across Tanzania and have been busy meticulously refurbished each one and winning awards for their commitment to honouring their surroundings. From Laba Mama Simba near Arusha, with its homely thatched cottages overlooking Mount Meru and a kudu, impala and gazelle-filled estate, to Laba Migration Camp, an itinerant ‘cabinet of curiosities’ that roams across the plains in pursuit of the migration, each destination feels both otherworldly and deeply steeped in its sense of place.

Laba Grumeti Art Lodge makes a dreamy next step, the couple building their vision from the red earth up. Here they are taking the under-canvas experience to new heights while reminding all-comers that Africa’s transcendent creativity truly knows no bounds.