MGANGA MWAGOGO

Congolese musical star Madilu System is given an update through the lens of this up-and-coming Nairobi-based photographer.

“I was inspired by the iconic style of the Congolese Rumba star Madilu System, who was once a member of the internationally recognised band TPOK Jazz. I sought to recreate the bold flair of Madilu’s stage looks, which informed the wardrobes of so many of our fathers and uncles in Eastern and Central Africa throughout the 1980s.'

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Styling, clothing and make-up Jamie Kimani
Models Lucas Ogutu and Randy Gowon

AMBER PINKERTON

From Jamaica (via London) with Love – this photographer’s image combines Jamaican schoolgirls with legends Nina Simone and Nina Mae McKinney.

“Uniforms are often very restrictive systems in regards to self-expression but Jamaican girls would always find a way to add personality to their appearances. This could be something as subtle as mascara, or the tailoring of the garment to outline the shape of the body, or elaborate hairstyles. It was all about finding indirect ways to rebel against a system that wasn’t built to support individuality. In recreating this image of the Caribbean evocative, I was keen to photograph this character with the same regality of women in 18th century portraiture - an art era where Black bodies were heavily excluded and underrepresented. Attitudinal influences stemmed from icons such as Nina Simone and Nina Mae McKinney.”

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Styling Jeanie Annan-Lewin
Model Alama Toure
Hair Zateesha Barbour
Make-up Laila Zakaria
Casting Jonathan Johnson
Photography assistance Scott Gallagher
Styling assistance Bo Dubé

SACKITEY TESA

The Accra-based emerging photographer and stylist makes a knock-out with Fela Kuti, Grace Jones and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

“The first iconic name that comes to mind is Fela Kuti because I listen to his music most of the time and he inspires me a lot. In the process of researching, I came across a photo of Fela Kuti, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Grace Jones shot by Andy Warhol in 1986 and decided to create a project inspired by these three figures. The image is made up of elements of a photo of Grace Jones shot by Jean-Paul Goude and another photo of Jean-Michel Basquiat by Michael Halsband, as well as Fela Kuti's renowned sense of style.”

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Models Samuel Kwabena Twum, Nana Yaw Korankye, Foli Semanu J

LAKIN OGUNBANWO

Celebrated art and fashion photographer Lakin Ogunbanwo cherishes the traditional dress up style of Nigerian women.

“This is part of a portrait series I’m working on of party goers in Lagos and the matching fabric they wear, which is called aso-ebi in Yoruba. Aso-ebi is any ‘uniform dress’ worn as a signifier of kinship, solidarity and association at ceremonies or festivities. For as long as I can remember, seeing how the average person interpreted or used the fabric has always awed me. I consider them the real fashion icons.”

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Models Obida Obioha and mum, Adebisi Alabi and Dami Oyetunji

DJENEBA ADUAYON

The accomplished Los Angeles-based photographic artist views her friend, model Michael Rowles, as her every day icon.

Djeneba says: “My idea of a Black style icon is someone who stays true to themselves at all times. Someone who lives and breathes fashion - not to show off but because it’s a way of life. Someone who embraces their roots and loves to be experimental to create some ‘Magie Noire’. For this brief I wanted someone who knows their fashion identity so I chose Rowles. From his joyful, playful and kind self to his effortless style, he inspires me every day. The way he dresses is colourful and elegant, casual yet very chic. His fashion accentuates his charisma and beauty. To me, fashion doesn’t necessarily need to be expensive. Most likely real icons who set trends don’t have the means to buy designer clothes. What they have instead is a sense of flair and a definitive creativity that goes beyond norms. As always in my work, I wanted to have here a mix of art and fashion to create visual poetry. Here Michael’s own clothes are layered with yarn pieces and jewellery, all handmade by artist Sohani Holland. As we were shooting this outdoors, people passing by were stopping to share some compliments and some even commented they might incorporate these elements into their own style. This is where fashion trends start - with real people and their own exploration.”

Michael says: “Being an inner-city kid from South Central Los Angeles, I grew up surrounded by an aesthetic that didn’t express the colourful individual that I was inside and out. At a young age I looked to my mother for style and personality, which she has so much of. As I started to go through life, I allowed my style to express who I was at that time whether it was a rebellious ghetto punk, donning dashikis and kufis to display my ancestral royalty or presenting an eclectic streetwear essence. I never want to let myself be boxed into what’s in front of me and stay open to express myself in new ways.”

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DAVID UZOCHUKWU & MICHELLE ELIE

Young Austrian-Nigerian photographer did a Zoom shoot with designer, collector and street style star Michelle Elie that transforms this Haitian beauty into a formidable statue.

David says: “I wanted this to be an ode to taking up space, to turning yourself into an icon. Modern deities worship themselves - temple, servant, and goddess all at once. The first time I heard of Michelle it was in the most reverent of tones, in a semi-virtual circle of Black artists in Germany. It felt exciting to see her commit to Black hyper-visibility for the sake of undeniable beauty. Claiming yourself as centre like that means embracing a certain vulnerability in public, and that boldness I admire.”

Michelle says: “Doing the shoot via Zoom with David felt really fresh. He was in Berlin, I was in Cologne and we weren’t afraid to adapt and to go for it to create the sculptural, abstract shapes he had envisioned. For me it was important to collaborate because I understand the importance of recognition and inclusion. I don’t want to be part of anything that is a token gesture toward diversity. I want to be part of real moments driven by real talent and expertise. David is a young Black photographer. I support this generation who are the ones who will be shaping the industry in the next 10 years.”

Read our full interview with Michelle Elie here

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