"There is a spirit of moving forward in Nigeria that’s unapologetic,” says Charef Tajer. “It’s reflected in the country’s culture, music and economic pursuits, with numerous stylists and designers contributing to the creative landscape. I really enjoy spending time with young people there; the older generation could seek answers from them.” It’s the eve of Casablanca’s ‘Day of Victory’ Paris Fashion Week show at the Louvre (the brand’s first outing on the womenswear schedule) and the French Moroccan designer is reflecting on his recent trip to Lagos, which served as inspiration for SS24. For him, Nigeria is a window into the continent at large. “Africa, being a very young continent, represents the future for me. This motivation underlies the creation of this collection – to foster discussions about Africa, particularly its youth and positive aspects. As an African, it's crucial to honour our roots and support Africa, even though we reside elsewhere. A sense of responsibility and connection persists in us, the diaspora.”

Shown on the 63rd anniversary of Nigerian independence, ‘Day of Victory’ acted as a love-letter to the country’s rich culture by blending Afrofuturistic designs with racing and rave influences. Think biker jackets with bikinis and beaded vests with patent shorts plus louche suiting steeped in the brand’s heart monogram. With a particular nod to Fela Kuti's legacy, collage-like knitwear referenced the musician’s album covers. Giving his seal of approval was Seun Kuti who appeared on the catwalk dressed in a sleek white striped bodysuit reminiscent of his father’s stage costumes. Meanwhile tennis court scenes were inspired by the works of painter Uzo Egonu.

The collection also highlighted responsibly sourced jewellery and accessories that reference the architecture in the north of Nigeria combined with the effervescent essence of Casablanca. Necklaces, bracelets and earrings featured gradient shells and freshwater pearls. The sunglasses had a fresh wraparound silhouette in evergreen, wine and sunburst tones, as well as a classic 1960s design with intricate details. An oversized yellow shield paid homage to Lagos's nightlife culture, showcasing the house's signature wave pattern.

To prepare for the collection, Tajer and his team journeyed to Lagos in March. Already a fan of Nigerian art and music, the creative polymath immersed himself in the city’s dynamic energy, from the petrol head scene to the beach clubs. He highlights the warm welcome he received from his friend of 17 years, Grace Ladoja, and her agency Metallic Inc., which helped to foster connections with many local creatives and artists. But Tajer’s love affair with Nigeria began long before he set foot in the country thanks to his admiration for Fela Kuti as an afrobeat pioneer and pan-African political activist. “He was a man of taste, a prominent artist with a keen sense of style and an appreciation for women. He was an international figure, a seasoned traveller, and a holder of political ideas. In all these aspects, we find a resonance with the values upheld at Casablanca. For me, the most crucial aspect is the message he conveyed."

Tajer originally founded Casablanca in 2018 as a modern luxury house that gives praise to his Moroccan roots and deriving its name from the city where his parents met in. The Paris-based brand is focussed on travel, from opulent hotels to serene country club sunsets, all reimagined with lively colours and painterly, après-sport motifs. These designs blend with Neapolitan tailoring techniques to create statement pieces. The brand has collaborated with Bulgari for leather goods, with New Balance for trainers and been the joint winner of the LVMH Prize, gathering up a legion of celebrity fans along the way.

Lately, Casablanca has also been vocal about its political stance on global issues. The AW23 collection, ‘For The Peace’, looked to the ancient city of Damascus and served as a powerful message of solidarity to the resilient youth in Syria through the use of Arabic iconography. And this season, Casablanca continues focusing on cultural exchange. Tajer opted for the Louvre as the show venue due to the fact that it's an institution holding many African artworks in a country that is vocally engaging with the conversation around restitution. He notes: “’Day of Victory’ being shown on Nigerian Independence Day is an interesting coincidence as the federation determined this date, not us. It holds significance amid the ongoing situation in Niger.”

Fela Kuti's sartorial fashion was a vital means to resist Eurocentric fashion and beauty norms. This dichotomy is not lost on Casablanca as it celebrates his style and vision as a non-native brand. Cultural appropriation is always a hot topic in fashion, especially when global brands lend a western lens on Africa. However there remains increasing optimism for a fairer future as brands increasingly engage in the continent's artisans and artists to craft their narratives, enabling them to share their indigenous perspectives through a truly collaborative way of working. This approach not only respects Africa's cultural richness but also holds the potential to propel the African economy to its true heights. Casablanca is pioneering this path as it confidently expresses its stance on meaningful issues through its irresistibly chic and sexy aesthetic.