The British Council’s East Africa Arts programme brought Creative DNA to London this August for its fifth annual showcase. The fashion incubator, which began in Kenya and now extends across Sub-Saharan Africa, provides emerging designers with skills and business training as well as cross-cultural mentorship and global exposure. This year, its cohort of 10 talents were presented as part of Africa Fashion Week London at Space House and Nataal, as Creative DNA media partner, came along for the ride.

In the main exhibition, the Creative DNA pavilion was an opportunity for visitors to get up close to the nine designers’ collections to fully appreciate the handcraftsmanship and cultural storytelling that has gone into each and every piece. Meanwhile the 10th participant, Guzo Technologies by Daniel Getachew, brought their work into the digital world with its innovative XR headsets.

Then it was onto the catwalk space. Sevaria by Kenyan designer Jamie Bryan Kimani opened the show with a collection crafted from richly textured, handwoven sisal and cotton textiles. Fashioned into structured, unisex pieces in olive and cream, a biker jacket, sleeveless jacket, shorts and shirts were accentuated by silver chainmail and long fringing. A standout leather short-fringed hourglass gown swept to the floor, completing an accomplished and elegant line-up.

Fellow Kenyan Sharon Wendo of Epica Jewellery took her statement adornments into greater realms with full look beaded dresses, which spoke to current mesh and full-reveal trends while hailing the art of Maasai beadwork. Each look draped and wiggled delightfully as the models moved. These complimented a roped choker and a dainty beaded flower skirt.

Next, Kenyan brand Kisero Leather by Kevin Abwova showcased its collection of leather bags in sturdy, textured finishes. Timeless, everyday styles such as cross-body and envelope complemented more standout pieces such as a ‘Charme’ circle style featuring a wooden top handle and alluring brass rings.

Ometsey by Ghana’s Darkwaa Edna followed with a confident line-up of womanly silhouettes that lived up to the brand’s motto, ‘leading with style and purpose’. Fitted maxi dresses, corsets and peplum tops with culottes felt strong in earthy shades, while flourishes of bright tie dye on wave-like hemlines added a flirtatious finish.

Black, Fine & Fly, a Nigerian brand by Anyibama Adaeze Temitope, centred its presentation on the way it favours premium denim to express authentic design. Sassy denim dresses came to the fore – baby doll, body-con and minis featured pleats, cut-outs and plenty of spicy additions such as organza cuffs, wax print slices and brass buttons. The denim mules with shell-inspired heels were sexy must-haves.

Shwanda Kollection by Uganda’s Yvonne Ahimbisibwe and Nigerian brand Henri Uduku showed together. The former’s striking recycled brass jewellery – cuffs, chokers and spherical drop earrings – complemented the latter’s easy menswear and womenswear pieces in crisp cottons and batik prints. A standout indigo-dyed numbers and letters motif on a twin set and dress lent a playful touch.

Dagmawit by Dagmawit Tesfaye Yigrem was like stepping back to a more genteel era. The looks, contemporary takes on handmade habeshi kemis, were an exercise celebrating Ethiopia’s master weaving and geometry-inspired embroidery. Understated pencil dresses, blazers and long-line coats in zesty shades were topped off by demure boater hats.

Finally, Rungano Rwedu by Zimbabwe’s Rumbidzai Matemachani rounded out the showcase with an array of intricately adorned bags. Each bold satchel was festooned in beautiful detailing – woven leathers, cowrie shells, brass studs and more – ensuring these accessories were true show stoppers. As the audience showed its stand-up and cheer appreciation, this next generation line-up of flourishing designers truly shone. And united, they showed us what’s in store for the future of sustainable fashion from the continent.