As C.R.E.O.L.E enters the Paris Fashion Week calendar, designer Vincent Frédéric-Colombo discusses his SS24 collection Coco-La-Fleur
At the heart C.R.E.O.L.E is Vincent Frédéric-Colombo, the Paris-based artist with a versatile individuality and a Guadeloupean heritage. Over the past decade, he has successfully ventured into various realms from casting director to visual merchandiser and co-founded LA CREOLE collective with Fanny Viguier, which organises hugely popular underground parties wedded to inclusivity. In 2022 he knew it was time to create his own brand firmly rooted in his Caribbean identity. Thus, C.R.E.O.L.E (Conscience Relative à l’Émancipation Outrepassant Les Entraves) was born as a way to celebrate the prosperity of the Creole community.
Through C.R.E.O.L.E, the designer aims to debunk the exoticised narratives surrounding his culture that are so-often perpetuated by European perspectives, and breaks away from traditional menswear with an embrace of unisex style. “In my work, I strive to educate and bring attention to important issues by introducing new perspectives and cultivating a heightened sense of consciousness,” Frédéric-Colombo tells us.
C.R.E.O.L.E just made its Paris Fashion Week debut with its SS24 collection drawing inspiration from Coco-La-Fleur, the charismatic main character of Christian Laura’s 1978 film ‘Coco-La-Fleur, Candidat’. Coco, an ordinary Guadeloupean citizen, is pushed into the political arena by a party that wants to use him to support Gaston, a French Metropolitan candidate from Paris who returns to the island seeking political success. Their alliance soon turns into a fierce rivalry as Coco rebels. His genuine concern the island's underprivileged communities lead to his victory, and his ultimate demise.
“Coco-La-Fleur has a powerful line in the film: ‘People's problem is that they love our island but they don't like our people’,” says Frédéric-Colombo. "This resonates with my way of challenging the stereotypes and expectations that Europeans and others often have about places they don't truly understand. It highlights the complexity of the stories and societies within these territories. It also reminds me of how we, Creoles, have adapted and thrived despite having things taken away from us. We have been asked to be complacent and forced to appreciate what we were given. It's as if we've been waiting for someone to listen to us. This mindset influences how I think about society through fashion and spreading meaningful messages."
“I strive to bring attention to important issues by introducing new perspectives and cultivating a heightened sense of consciousness”
Held at Palais de Tokyo, the fashion week presentation invited us into the world of cockfight culture, popular in the French Caribbeans and called "Pitt à Coq" in Creole, which is a reference to scenes from the film. The designer’s interpretation of the kind of wardrobe Coco-La-Fleur would have worn seeped into the collection. Think stripey shirts, loose suits, sparkly boxing shorts and reinterpreted madras print sets as officewear meets beach attire. A ‘Taxi Zoukeur’ t-shirt took inspiration from Ivorian Zouk dancers, and chunky woven caps were a nod to Rastafarianism. The collection also includes Frédéric-Colombo’s first jewellery pieces that play around the brand’s ‘C’ logo and Coco's hibiscus flower to create luscious gold hoops and floral pendants.
The cockfight commenced with musical performances by three Caribbean artists: Guynel, Lamarre, and Ariel Tintar, while the line-up of diverse models [cast by Nataal’s Stéphane Gaboué] set the scene by enacting everyday scenes from casual conversations to playing dominoes. Through the softness of the performances and the power of their voices, strong messages were conveyed. For instance, Guynel sang of a desire to be loved while Ariel Tintar performed ‘Missié Bolo’, his song denouncing his father's experience of racism as a customs officer.
The show, masterful in its sense of style and showmanship, created a moment of collective pride by putting a light on Creole identities and contributing to Frédéric-Colombo’s desire to forge a path for others to follow. “As part of my brand legacy, I aim to establish environments where young talents with Caribbean heritage can be inspired to create and flourish.”
Rinse invite LA CREOLE, &ce Recless and Moonshine for a summer party at Point Fort d'Aubervilliers on 15 July. Buy tickets here https://dice.fm/event/q9o9a-rinse-invite-la-creole-ce-recless-et-moonshine-15th-jul-le-point-fort-paris-tickets