There is a serenity to UNI FORM, one that resists spectacle and instead reveals itself through intention, construction and time. Rooted in Johannesburg and shaped by the rhythms of its industrial life, the brand occupies a space where solemnity and play coexist, where discipline is balanced by imagination. And in their breathtaking new collection, entitled ‘Exhale’, creative minds Luke Radloff and Bee Diamondhead presented a once in a lifetime experience at Cape Town’s Mount Nelson, A Belmond Hotel for Confections x Collections 2025 (CxC).

“We take the process of our work very seriously but it comes from a place of childlike curiosity and freedom of expression,” says brand founder Luke Radloff. This duality sits at the heart of UNI FORM’s philosophy. During a Orveda Prize residency at the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation in Paris, a fundamental shift occurred. The experience was less about absorbing aesthetic codes and more about understanding how freedom could exist within structure. Rather than pushing to be different, or trying to be edgy, Radloff and Diamondhead connected on their singular focus: honest beauty. “After studying the greatest couturiers of the 20th century, something unlocked in us,” Radloff explain. “We realised that the end result should be free from judgement, from restriction, rather to allow the idea to have a life of its own.”

That sense of freedom is anchored firmly in place. UNI FORM’s name is a direct homage to Johannesburg, a city defined by hard graft and layered identities. It is here, in the daily choreography of commuters and workers, that the brand finds its most enduring inspiration. So despite debuting the collection in sunny Cape Town, and within the warm, sumptuous walls of Mount Nelson, it still screamed 011.

At the centre of the in-the-round show sat a handsome textile loom manned by the brand’s master textile maker and positioned not as ornament, but as statement. Its presence grounded the collection in labour and process, drawing a direct line to Johannesburg’s annals, a city built on making, movement and work. Equally, the loom nodded to Cape Town’s deep textile heritage, where weaving and fabric production have long shaped cultural and economic narratives. By bringing the loom into the show space, UNI FORM collapsed the distance between garment and origin, reminding the audience that fashion begins with hands, histories and time.

“We are confronted daily with different versions of uniforms that clothe the city’s industrial workforce, and we are constantly inspired by the distinct styling we witness,” Radloff explains. “On the street, this allows a glimpse into the very interesting intersection of work and personal life, uniforms and casual attire. We may see someone leaving work, perhaps in a vintage tailored suit, but paired with sneakers and a traditional hat.” It is this instinctive styling that UNI FORM elevates. “We believe it becomes a true street style, rather than something influenced by America or Europe.” In doing so, the brand quietly insists on Johannesburg’s place within global fashion discourse, not as a follower, but as a generator of its own visual language.

At the core of UNI FORM’s design practice is what Radloff describes as “emotional tailoring”. Rather than relying on overt colour or visual excess, the brand focuses on shape and construction as carriers of meaning. He explains the concept in simple terms, despite its significant messaging. “This speaks to the emotional attachment a wearer can have to a garment. For us, this comes through fit, form and silhouette, the way a garment can elevate your mood,” he says. “This is mostly achieved through techniques and details that are often not even visible. They are a part of the construction and inside the DNA of the garment. It’s this invisible craft that gives the garment integrity, allowing it to become a responsible garment that be passed down to other generations.”

The brand’s restrained use of colour – a strong contrast to the hotel’s tickled pink exterior – is closely tied to this philosophy. “Colour and print is often done in irresponsible ways, particularly on polyester fabrics,” Radloff explains. “UNI FORM engages predominantly with natural fibres, which tend to be neutral colours.” As a result, muted palettes are not always conceptual decisions, but responsible ones.

These values were made tangible during UNI FORM’s show, a moody presentation where low lighting carved out each figure, allowing form, movement and material to lead rather than overwhelm. Complex folds, twists and drapes lent a tender cocooning to flapper dresses, trench coats and pantaloons. Aprons and headscarves hinted at ecclesiastical vestments and a sparing use of adornments – golden nuggets, whispering feathers and a striking breast plate – added just the right amount of drama. For the first half of the show, models walked only to the hypnotic, repetitive sound of the loom’s warp and weft motions. Click-clack, click-clack, click-clack. Then the second half welcomed a live performance by Tshivenda folk vocalist Muneyi, his mesmerising voice setting the pace of the room and transforming the runway into a shared, contemplative experience.

As the show made clear, if UNI FORM allows itself moments of indulgence, they are defined not by excess, but by slowness. “We believe time is the greatest luxury that exists in today’s world, where extreme consumption and output based on volume, rather than quality and craft, becomes the standard,” Radloff says. True indulgence, he feels, lies in connection. “Any real time we get to engage with our team, collaborators, artists, performers, suppliers and clients is the most valuable and feels very special.” Bringing hand weavers to CxC to showcase alongside the brand remains a highlight, especially given the sustainable fashion ethos of the event established by curators, Twyg. “Spending that time with them here was magical,” Radloff reflects.

Although UNI FORM belongs to Johannesburg, its community extends far beyond the city and Radloff resists being defined through geography alone. “When you put your heart into your work, when integrity outweighs views or likes or follows, you tend to attract people with similar values,” he says. “Our audience shares those qualities, no matter where they are in the world.” In a fashion landscape driven by speed and excess, UNI FORM offers an alluring alternative. A uniform not of sameness, but of communal power, shaped by Johannesburg’s relentless pulse, softened by imagination, and held together by craft, emotion and time.