Forward is about digging deep and pushing through while reflecting on the future of fashion post pandemic. In this time of lockdown, we are in a position to formulate ways of doing things that take care of ourselves and the planet. In fashion, our choices need to be more considered and promote sustainability. We need to value quality over quantity, know where our clothes come from and how they were produced. And once we get back to our regular schedules, we need to support our local brands. The five South African designers featured in this editorial, all of whom showcased AW20 collections at SA Menswear Week in Cape Town, are dedicated to a visionary focus on local, ethical fashion.

One I Am

Known for his hand painted garments and new takes on kimonos, this season Onesimo Bam of One I Am focussed more on structured pieces that played with proportion. The collection, titled 1, symbolised breaking barriers and forging new paths - both as one and collectively. The rough edges and elongated shapes given to garments lent the overall presentation a beautiful rawness.

By Ele

This season Eleazer Radeve of By Ele stayed true to his brand’s bold and unabashed aesthetic with a collection that was effortlessly sophisticated with sleek, tailored lines. Speaking to ideas around African identity, the recurring use of bright green – often contrasting against a painterly monochrome print - was an ode to our growth as a people and a beacon of hope for our future.

Nao Serati

Nao Serati’s sensual designs push the margins of gender, art and sexuality within the context of his South African heritage. I was drawn to the suit and billowing top on his AW20 runway, which effortlessly played with proportions and fluidity through the interplay of hard and soft elements.

Lucky Luke

New to SA Menswear Week, contemporary street wear brand Lucky Luke came through with a collection filled with boyish charm. Entitled Wind Valley/ Blue Addition, it fused sporty looks with tailoring and simple graphic motifs. This shirt is laid back with a wave-like sense of motion.

Merwe Mode X Tiaan Schutte

This season Deeva van der Merwe of Merwe Mode collaborated with Tiaan Schutte of Creative Revolt on a elegant collection with an emphasis on non-gendered silhouettes. I was particularly attracted to the clean lines and the warm brown colour palette, which was achieved with a butter wash. The front pleated trousers give a dramatic flair but still maintain a minimalist look.

Fashion direction and words Tandekile Mkize
Photography Andile Phewa
Models Buck Whaley, Mira Jaan
Fashion assistance Buck Whaley

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By Ele
Lucky Luke
Merwe Mode
Nao Serati
One I Am

Published on 12/04/2020