“I remember going to see a Cartier jewellery exhibition at the Grand Palais. I'd never experienced anything so beautiful and it shifted something inside of me,” recalls Melanie Grant of the moment her obsession with jewellery truly began. “Near me were some women who were looking at some tiaras and quite tearful. They told me, ‘We’re cleaners and we never thought we’d ever be able to see anything like this’. And I stood there thinking, I grew up in a council estate and I feel the same.”

This interaction affirmed Grant’s conviction that jewellery can inspire everyone while playing a part in a better world. The award-winning author, writer and curator explains: “Jewellery charts the history of humanity, which is why I believe in spreading knowledge and ensuring there are no barriers to entry. But we also have to prepare for the future of jewellery by making it as ethical and sustainable as possible. Those of us in the industry, like every one of us, must move to the next level of caring for the planet.”

Grant brings this vision to her role as executive director The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), the world’s leading sustainability standard setting organisation for the jewellery and watch industry. With nearing 2,000 members in over 70 countries, it sets the bar for ethical practices across the entire supply chain in order to build trust and transparency to the industry. From mining communities to independent designers, brands and consumers, it’s about spreading knowledge and creating an inclusive, global conversation.

This conversation took a leap forward at last year’s State of the Art Summit, hosted by the RJC, Mineralogical & Geological Museum at Harvard (MGMH) and Gemological Institute of America (GIA). “We brought together artists, scientists, academics and industry experts to talk about the green transition. We discussed traceability and sustainability, politics and business, but when it came down to it, art came out as the great unifier; it’s what connects us all.”

This sparked the idea for the JewelryArts 24 Prize (JA24), an open-call digital arts competition examining how science and art can lead to more sustainable practices in the luxury jewellery and watch space. Launched in April 2024 by the RJC, MGMH and GIA, applicants of all ages and disciplines were invited to draw on data from the summit to create work addressing the social and environmental impact of the green energy transition and shaping a future where nature and jewellery live in harmony. From a broad range of entries, the expert panel unanimously chose Djeneba Aduayom as the inaugural JA24 winner. “Djeneba’s work was a haunting visual feast that left an indelible mark on all of us – a true testament to the artistry and creativity that our industry fosters,” Grant says.

Aduayom’s own journey very much speaks to JA24. The California-based artist enjoyed a successful career as a dancer before emerging as a photographer in 2011. She’s since become recognised for her editorial portraiture, fashion and art practice and has exhibited worldwide. Her surreal and often dreamy images are marked by a sense of movement and remind us of the universality of the human experience, an understanding that stems from her multicultural heritage (Togo, France and Italy) and authentic empathy for people and the planet.

"My vision is to reveal the intricate web of connections that binds us all,” Aduayom says. “I strive to break down artificial boundaries and challenge societal limitations, showing how seemingly disparate elements of life are fundamentally intertwined. Through my work, I aim to capture the beautiful chaos of our world, highlighting the unity that underlies diversity. I invite viewers to appreciate our shared humanity and the potential for collective growth.”

Aduayom’s winning entry, ‘Atmospheric Perspective’, is a multi-technology artwork responding to global warming by envisioning a desert Earth scorched by toxicity. “I was called to produce a trauma response to the deteriorating health of our planet. As our collective actions and inactions continue to destroy resources, this poetic piece imagines what we are transforming our world into,” she explains. “My hope is that the viewer experiences their own perceptual sensations and is compelled to do their part to protect this planet we call home.”

The artist receives a JA24 creative fund and an enjoys an exhibition during Frieze London at Silo, the world’s first zero-waste restaurant. Her immersive, multi-screen digital installation will set the stage for a series of encounters allowing guests to experience Aduayom’s work alongside exclusive food pairings and a scent immersion by Within 51/49.

Here, ‘Atmospheric Perspective’ will sit in conversation with ‘Earthen Adornments’, another series by Aduayom that travels through nature’s precious textures and hues, from red clays to glistening minerals. “Images of intricate rock formations and undulating sands serve as a metaphor for the complexity and resilience of nature, encouraging us to reflect on how we create beautiful objects while preserving the beauty of their source,” Aduayom explains. “The exhibition reveals the intricate relationship between Earth’s raw materials and human artistry, emphasising the delicate balance required for sustainable creation and hailing the beautiful objects that can come from mindful jewellery practices.”

A stunning first turn for the JewelryArts Prize, and a bold testament to the power of art to lead education and change, this is just the beginning of a dialogue that can only grow as the prize spreads its wings. Grant muses: “I’d love for jewellery to create its own digital world and for the prize to go deeper into that world. Nothing beats seeing something that really pins you, that brings us together and helps us to explore new realms.”

JA24 is open for public view from 9 to 12 October 2024 at Silo, First Floor, Unit 7 Queens Yard, White Post Lane, London, E9 5DN.