Lagos Fashion Week returned to its full catwalk glory for the recent SS23 edition thanks to a line-up of stellar designers and new names from across the continent. Strong off-site shows and presentations came from Shem Paronelli, Bubu Ogisi, Andrea Iyamah and Lagos Space Programme. Meanwhile onsite, highlights ranged from the Green Access initiative for sustainable designers to a star turn from MaxHosa. Nataal went backstage to talk to five designers about their inspirations and preoccupations this season.

KikoRomeo

Creative director Iona McCreath has made fresh strides with KikoRomeo since taking the helm from her mother, Anne McCreath, who originally established the brand in Kenya in 1996. With a core focus on social impact, KikoRomeo hails Kenyan culture through its effortless and fluid designs. This collection, entitled ‘Ille’, was inspired by the nomadic Rendille tribe from east Africa. “For me, that was a starting point to look at the ways in which our cultures continue to evolve and hybridise, and how we continue to pick from each other,” Iona says. She developed a hand dyed fabric using regenerated orange peel and rose cellulose fibres, and the Ille cloth featuring beads woven into rain-fed cotton. These were brought to life on loose-fitting jump suits, asymmetric tops and tunics.

Fruché

Lagos-based brand Fruché by Frank Agbuno can count Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie and Lupita Nyong’o as fans of its sensual designs constructed through rouching, knotting and draping. This season, Aghuno created a collection that was an ode to his father who passed away in 2021. “I just knew that I wanted to do something that was in memory of him,” says Aghuno, who explored the concept of deconstructing and then embellishing his father’s suits. “I took the idea and implemented it into womenswear, and that’s why you see details like rhinestones. I wanted it to still be fun,” he adds. The results ranged from twisted shirts to fringed, floor length gowns, the show closing with the appearance of spray paint artist Driky who live painted dove and leaf imagery onto the last look.

Awa Meité

Malian fashion and textile designer Awa Meité, centres her brand on elevating the work of her country’s artisans. Her designs are all ethically created from woven and printed fabrics that showcase true craftsmanship. “This collection’s inspiration came from different regions in Mali. For example, the necklaces are bags made by the Touareg from Konna,” Awa tells us. “The challenge was to reinterpret what they make because their works are so refined and beautiful, so we had to think of really great ways to rethink the craft by working with weavers and cotton processors.” These stunning neck pieces complimented roomy gowns, fringed ponchos and wide-legged trousers in soft hues.

Olooh Concept

Olooh Concept by Abidjan-based designer and photographer Kadar Diaby is rooted in sustainability. Translating to ‘Ours’ in English, the brand tells stories of Ivorian people, translating personal experiences into wearable silhouettes. “This collection is a celebration of the new thirty-something year olds, because we’ve realised that in Abidjan, these people are classic but also elegant,” Diaby says. “They do sport, work hard, go to parties and basically just enjoy life. This was the narrative we wanted to push this season.” Cue some pared back and handsomely tailored shirts, shorts and hoodies alongside cutaway and draw-string dresses.

Odio Mimonet

Odion Oseni has been taking Nigerian design forward since 1995. This collection, entitled ‘One With Nature’, was a joyous riot of colours, prints and textures across bold yet flattering silhouettes that gratify the female form. Recurring motifs included an ‘Odio Mimonet’ autograph print and rippling hemlines. “The collection embodies our use of time-honoured practices celebrating indigenous fabrics and local artisans and the important role they play in the fashion ecosystem,” Oseni says. “Each garment is in seeming motion thanks to elements such as waves cut-outs and scallop detailing. This recalls the feeling of free moving air, the ocean, trees and sand beneath our feet. We hope this acts as a reminder to find the freedom of individual style expression.”

Words Elvis Kachi

Photography Reed Davis, Adedamola Odetara, SDR, Lagos Fashion Week

Published on 07/11/2022