IAMISIGO’s SS21 collection continues the label’s deep dive in African histories and mythologies. Nigerian designer Bubu Ogisi has always dedicated her work to preserving and evolving textiles and craft techniques across Africa as a means of reclaiming lost narratives, addressing socio-political and environmental concerns and casting new spells for the future. What started out as an expression through womenswear has, over time, evolved into film, space design and art with Ogisi exhibiting at FNB Art Joburg this month.

While based between Lagos, Accra and Nairobi, and usually sourcing and making in several countries, this season Ogisi kept her gaze close to home to create the collection entitled Land of Gods. Her starting point was an exploration of Yoruba and Edy belief systems to consider the human connection to divinity and to pose open ended questions. If we create and destroy like gods, are we descendants of gods? If we are situated in the visible world (agbon) and in the spirit world (erinmwin), how do we effectively communicate with our spiritual guardian (ehi)? How can we truly understand our spiritual identity (osa or orisa) and ancestral path?

“We decided to meditate on what we have here in Nigeria by travelling to four states to find out about the orishas and gods of different tribes and the couture outfits worn by priests and priestesses, which are called Adaigho,” Ogisi explains. “For me it was about going back to the intricate detailing and patterns of the past to reveal outstanding pieces that reflect how we communicate with the other world.”

She worked closely with weavers, beaders and tailors to handmake pieces that turn the body into a spiritual landscape and connect the wearer with a better understanding of love, faith, dignity and the forces of nature. The colour palette of red (blood, fire, provocation, sacrifice and violence), black (shame) and white (joy and purity) invokes vital energy (Àse). Meanwhile recycled polyester ruffles act as a sign of abundance and simple pattern formations conjure up the Edo symbol Igha-ede, which divides night and day. Organza, cotton and PVC create bold silhouettes festooned with trailing woollen threads and layered with beaded panels. These are paired with flat shoes made in collaboration with Kkerele featuring shield-like front panels.

“These pieces are terrains of soul, never finished, a language for the body beyond conscious understanding,” adds Ogisi. “They are like a mnemonic device that reminds you of what we’ve always known. A road map to the truth.”

Creative direction Bubu Ogisi
Photography Chris Okoigun
Model Adejoke Adesope
Words Helen Jennings

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Published on 13/11/2020