Nataal’s pick of the most exciting emerging designers at London Fashion Week SS20

Richard Malone: Dear Grandma
Never has grief been more beautiful. Mourning the loss of his grandma Nellie, Richard Malone sought refuge in creativity and drew on the final conversations he had with her for SS20. Specifically, the idea of working-class creatives taking up space in an industry that rarely affords them a seat at the table. Silhouettes were strong, sculptural and crafted from Taroni silks, handwoven linen and horsehair canvas. While intricate illustrations, just visible underneath some of his looks, were taken from scraps of paper that this talent drew with Nellie. Working with set designer Janina Pedan, the idea of occupying space was taken further with sheer sculptures scattered down the catwalk, around which his diverse cast of models in their beautiful creations walked.

Supriya Lele: Layers of meaning
Fashion East alumni Supriya Lele made her solo catwalk debut this season with a collection that was as complex as it was wearable. Making use of an inky palette – a move away from the bold shades that the designer is known for – Lele’s ingenious layering saw delicate nylons meet slick rubbers and sheer mesh. Looking to the complex considerations that come with cultural identity, she lifted inspiration from her Indian heritage. Belts took their cue from traditional garb, saris were deconstructed and reborn as cropped bralettes and prints from the saris were used on form-fitting dresses. These feminine pieces were juxtaposed against the slick rubber pencil skirts and impressive trench coat. One to watch.

Roberta Einer: Grown up sparkle
It was a riotous summer holiday at Roberta Einer whose contemporary embroidery sought refuge in vintage silhouettes and childhood nostalgia. Casting Sofia Loren and Monica Belluci as her muses, corsetry met its match with loose, beach-ready pyjamas and oversized tailoring. A picture postcard collection, the coastline of southern Italy was evidently on Einer’s mind with citrus slices rendered in sequins and moments of lime green throughout, while a watercolour palette of sand, pale blue and sunshine yellow reflected the sea shore. Nodding to her Estonian heritage, Einer continued to explore hand-crocheting techniques in her knitwear. A raft of collaboration meant that nostalgia was explored through Care Bears logos and slogans, hand embroidered pieces were suitably sparkly thanks to Swarovski and Christian Louboutin shoes were embellished to perfection.

A.W.A.K.E Mode: Razer sharp femininity
Proving that minimalism doesn’t have to mean boring, Natalia Alaverdian’s A.W.A.K.E Mode was a masterclass in wearable fashion as the designer created a capsule wardrobe of formidable silhouettes. Think precisely pleated pencil skirts, simple bandeaus and sleek asymmetric tops in a restrained palette of beige, black and white, which found moments of disruption with pops of colour. In crafting pieces that are designed to form part of an everyday uniform, Alaverdian made use of crisp cottons, vegan leather and seductively flowing silks. The brand’s handsome accessories line grew in importance with structured bucket bags, oversized clutches and elegant heels that can be worn all day long. All in all, a triumphant moment of quiet.

Eftychia: Office politics
Upon walking into Eftychia Karamolegkou’s presentation, it felt like one was interrupting an exceedingly wearisome board meeting. The New Gen One To Watch designer’s models - dressed in her signature louche suiting in muted shades of grey and brown - rested their feet on desks, played with their mobile phones and whispered office gossip to each other. A femme take on Glengarry Glen Ross - minus the swearing - these women’s seriously suave work attire comprised silk shirts double breasted jackets, loose slacks and A-line midi skirts that had an effortlessly masculine appeal.

Marta Jakubowski: Femme fatales
Marlene Dietrich is most people’s forever muse and on the moodboard for Marta Jakubowski this season, the Hollywood star’s inscrutable beauty and powerful glamour was crossed with the rebel appeal of the lead character in action film Run Lola Run to come up with a refined collection of layered suiting and draped dresses. The RCA graduate is known for her pared back leanings, which here were expressed through strong outerwear pieces such as angular biker jackets and multi-collared trench coats in pleasing shades of lavender, mint and tan. Black gowns that clung just off shoulders, pleated trousers with skirt overlays and twisted knitwear will prepare the Jakubowski woman for life as a modern day heroine.

Roberts Wood: Augmented dreams
Katie Roberts-Wood examined the journey from girl to womanhood and the ideas of self that develop as one also builds an “emotional armour”. Of her myriad references were the martyr Catherine of Alexandria and warrior Joan of Arc, which she channelled into her artisanal approach to digital textile innovations. The results were a series of highly textured, beautifully crafted dresses. Each gauzy concoction combined handcrafted embellishments such as bows, ties and ruffles with digital cutting, embroidery and printing. Worn by performers wearing distressed ballerina slippers - whose fluid movements echoed the ethereal projections that surrounded them - the collection felt light as air and yet destined for the dark and mythical forest.

Fashion East: Make do and mend
This season Fashion East spoke to LFW’s theme of ‘Positive Fashion’ with a line-up of designers all dedicated to sustainable and slow fashion practices. Romanian talent Ancuta Sarca made her debut with a presentation of her hybrid trainer-kitten heels. Each pair was handmade using recycled sneakers and heels that combined into surprisingly elegant and humorous mules.

Next up, British knitwear storyteller Gareth Wrighton took us on a warped trip into “a virtual unreality” from gaming avatars to pre-teen YouTube stars via sanitised sukeban girls and cyber bullies. Each one-of-a-kind outfit suggested a different degenerate character with stand outs including a fully knitted, head to toe catsuit covered in pom poms, a gold cardigan made entirely from jingle bells and a ghost-tree ensemble complete with scary mask.

Last up, Yuhan Wang continued to explore her ideas of traditional Chinese femininity through a modern lens. Taking The Poeny Pavilion, an epic tale of forbidden love, as her starting point, Wang’s delicate lace and rouched satin dresses in white, lilac and lemon were topped off with romantic bonnets and doily adornments. Equal parts Great Expectations and In The Mood For Love.