A lot has changed since the last IRL iteration of London Fashion Week and yet things didn’t seem so different - the proof of negative Covid-19 tests notwithstanding. The event still acts as a spotlight for the best and brightest talent that the city has to offer and this season, perhaps more than ever before, it was a real celebration of creativity with community and collaboration firmly on the agenda. As for the clothes themselves - they were a joyous demand to shake off the sweats because summer is coming, and this time, it’s for real.

Roksanda

Over at Kensington Gardens, Roksanda delivered not a catwalk show but a theatrical act that opined on the nature of freedom. Choreographed by Holly Blansky, the collection came alive through dance as Roksanda Ilinčić’s signature voluminous silhouettes took shape and gave flight as the cast of models moved gracefully around the Serpentine Pavilion 2021. The beautifully curved building was created by the youngest architect to receive this annual commission from the Serpentine Gallery, South African Sumayya Vally, and with its pastel pink and soft grey hues, it made the perfect backdrop to showcase the designer’s ever-present devotion to rich colours and artful prints.

Fashion East

Unapologetically me – that was the mood at Fashion East for SS22. From Jawara Alleyne’s presentation to Chet Lo and Maximilian’s shows, the overriding feelings were of uniqueness and liberation. All of the brands – each with its own strong and assured aesthetic – were unashamedly themselves. In a bold yet wearable palette of red, blue, black and mustard, Alleyne’s collection was crafted from repurposed garments and took cues from the designer’s Caribbean background as well as his punk ideology. Chet-Lo, making use of fishing wire, created a tropical collection that at once recalled futuristic themes – from a 1960s perspective – and anime heroines. Finally, Maximilian once again deployed skin-baring silhouettes to great effect with the inclusion of some slightly more louche lines and soft draping.

Labrum

It was Labrum’s first official on-schedule show at LFW and this Nataal favourite didn’t disappoint. It opened with Zimbabwean praise singer Thabo narrating in isiNdebele (a Southern African Nguni language) ‘inyawo zabantwana zithi phatha phatha,’ or ‘the children’s feet go pitter-patter.’ This reference to moving feet evoked one of the central themes that underpins Foday Dumbuya’s vision. Travel, movement, migration, being far away from home, but ultimately never forgetting where we come from, Africa.

At its core, the show was a rapturous celebration of Black African pride as well as community, with set design by celebrated British-Nigerian designer Yinka Ilori, styling from the designer’s fellow Sierra Leonean Ib Kamara and old-school boxy leather suitcase bags created by British-Nigerian reality star Louie Akinwale. This powerful story translated into the clothes: loosely tailored suits in cotton and tie-dye prints crafted in collaboration with Madam Wokie Skills Development Initiative in Sierra Leone. The brand’s debut womenswear offering was a continuation of the strong outerwear and masculine tailoring, with a single breasted black coat dress the standout sexy piece. Then there was the outright summer fun: short shorts suits, a purple flouncy coat with big flower sleeves and a voluminous maxi dress.

Titled The Sound of Movement, the event reflected on the ability of music to connect people throughout the diaspora from seemingly disparate backgrounds as a raucous band playing high life tracks throughout. A standing ovation and loud applause inevitably followed Dumbuya’s run down the catwalk at the end – as well it should.

Erdem

Sunday was spent imbibing the gospel of the house of Erdem at the British Museum. The atmosphere crackled with mystery as we waited for the first model to take a step into the forthcoming tale of romance, love and individuality. The show began with hues of white before moving into heady florals so delightful that they seemed as though they must have been dreamt up. Superbly styled by Ib Kamara, ancient Positano tailoring was topped with the exquisite millinery of Noel Stewart Miller. Opulent was the word at Erdem.