The term ‘collaboration’ is one often used in today’s discourse around content and creativity. It’s a process which all artists know can be messy and complicated but always offers the opportunity for the product to be bigger than the sum of its parts. In this instance, meaningful collaboration drives the coming together of South African fashion designer Lukhanyo Mdingi, multi-disciplinary artist, singer and traditional healer Desire Marea, and director Adriaan Louw. Their work, Desire, is a poignant and pressing look inside what can happen when artists connect meaningfully and allow trust to direct their process.

The film was commissioned to celebrate Mdingi’s 2021 Karl Lagerfeld LVMH Prize win and drives the idea that “film, music and fashion can create a solid story through the spirit of collaboration,” according to the film’s manifesto. For Louw, whose nostalgic approach allows for a gentle, intimate viewing experience, elevating the essence of Mdingi’s designs and Desire’s character was central to the process of developing the film. “The idea was always to dive into the essence of Desire to capture their views on the world. We didn’t know what that would be exactly but we did know what the tone of the film would feel like,” Louw explains. “Although he was born in Durban, we shot in Johannesburg, which is the city that shaped the Desire we all know today. I think a part of Desire’s essence is their mystique, so the film lets you close to them but there’s still a mystery around them.”

“I’ve always tried to create human connection in my work and in this case, Lukhanyo’s personality and his work feels so honest that being able to connect that with a stylistic documentary approach really speaks to the kind of work I want to create,” adds Louw. “Having a small crew with only a backpack of cameras allowed us to be flexible. Even though I planned the majority of the scenes, we had the opportunity to let things organically unfold the way they needed to.”

So, what does all of this say about the Mdingi’s design world, and the headspace of the film’s originator, who is known for his singular approach to sustainability and intelligent style? “I’ve always believed that us humans are more alike than different,” Mdingi says. “This film represents a layer of intimacy within Desire that very few have experienced. I hope that those that pay attention to their truth will find a sense of relatability within themselves. The visceral sensibility within this film and its potent sense of vulnerability is inspiring. To be held by the presence of Desire through this body of work has been an extraordinary gift and honour.”