When modesty in spoken of in terms of clothing, it’s usually in reference to what a woman could or should put on her body, but Amsterdam based brand Mastoor is flipping the script. The brainchild of spoken word artist Abid Tounssi and his wife Fadma Akdimi, the label, Tounssi tells us, was born out of a frustration in finding garments that appealed to both his sense of style and Moroccan heritage. “After a long journey in search of my identity as a Muslim and Afro-European man in a western society I found certain limitations when it came to representative men’s clothing,” he says. “I wasn’t comfortable wearing only traditional or modern fashion, which is what inspired me to create a fusion of both worlds.”

Mastoor launched this summer with its debut collection, Desert Caravan. From concept to completion, mindful manufacturing – thinking about sustainability and the working conditions for garment makers – has been key to the brand’s philosophy. Crucially, the spirit of Islam is woven into every piece of this soft hued capsule. “I always used to wonder ‘Who made my clothes?’,” he reflects. “So, from the outset we wanted this to be a brand that strives to be moral. No egos involved, no famous models, just a product that lives up to its moral characteristics in its overall process; being made in an honest way and being worn with modesty.”

Simple peakless caps, drop-crotch trousers and billowing t-shirts are all presented in sun baked neutrals and soft pastels inspired by Morocco’s south. “The moodboard started with a story that should take you through the desert, which is symbolic for its natural beauty - the sand, sun, vegetation, animals. All that inspired the choice of colours.”

Trousers, which are reminiscent of those worn in Algeria under the Ottomans, take their cue from traditional Moroccan garms. “Originally from Persia, they’re based on the qandrisi pants, popular in the Sahara and across North Africa.” The loose-fitting tees are cut long through the body and with sleeves designed to cover the elbows. Design details reflect awrah teachings about the vulnerability of the body. But, Tounssi stresses, “Even though the clothes are inspired by the guidelines of Islam - a loose fit, covering the Awrah [navel to knees], pants ending above the ankles - our target audience is the modern modest man in general, regardless of ethnicity or religion.”

Both Tounssi and Akdimi were born in the Netherlands to Imazighen parents, from Tanger and Nador respectively. Tounssi is better known by his former stage name, Salah Edin, but now works with Amsterdam youth. “I used to be one of the most controversial rap artists in the Netherlands,” he reflects. “I retired in 2011 to become a positive role model and a spoken word artist instead.” He’s now a project leader at the Cultural Development Centre, which aims to empower young people with immigrant backgrounds. Meanwhile Akdimi has a fashion retail background has been crucial to launching the label. “My wife is co-founder and we share responsibility in every aspect.”

To bring their vision to life, the duo travelled to the very location which had been pinned to their moodboard since the beginning - the Merzouga Desert - taking with them photographer and fellow third culture kid, Mounir Raj. In the images, melodic sand dunes and textiles gently waving under the warm glow of the Maghrebi sun form the perfect backdrop for this thoughtful collection.

Words Miriam Bouteba
Photography Mounir Raji
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Published on 05/09/2020