The Warembo Wasanii art studio in Nairobi’s Korogocho area is a visual riot. Hanging off the walls and beams in various states of completion are headpieces made from drinking straws and beer cans, a bouquet of daffodils formed of plastic cups, a green pleated skirt made from homespun gunny bags, flattened bottle tops, wild tendrils of charging cables, potted plants and many other odds and ends. Yet it is supremely ordered chaos and a sanctuary for Kenyan artist Joan Otieno and the young women in her community.

For the past four years, Otieno has taught her students how to use plastic sourced from landfills in the informal settlements of Kariobangi and Dandora to make artwork and garments. The labour involved is self-evident, as is the talent. In the hands of these artists, substances destined for slow degradation become exceptional pieces expertly crafted and infused with life-affirming whimsy.

“I don’t see these things as waste material. To me plastic is a gift. It is available and I view it this way with a passion,” explains Otieno, who started out as a wildlife painter in her hometown of Mombasa before turning to upcycling. “In my process, I consider how I want people to look at this material from a different perspective and with respect. I want it to spark a conversation.”

Twenty-five of her students’ garments are the subject of Mokoro, a multimedia exhibition on view at Gallery Mercier et Associés in Paris (24-25 June) that celebrates self-empowerment, creativity and sisterhood. The women of Warembo Wasanii are both its creators and subjects and are showcased in collaboration with stylist Louise Ford, photographer Kristin-Lee Moolman and hairstylist Yann Turchi, as well as curators Emmanuelle Atlan of Farago Projects and Sophie Strobele, co-founder of ERE Foundation.

The idea formed in 2019 when Ford and Moolman went to Kenya to produce 28 Hats For Lamu which documented the Shela Hat Contest, a biannual event in which entrants create hats from material that would otherwise be thrown away. The pair quickly fell in love with Warembo Wasanii’s work, then spent a year marshalling resources and assembling collaborators to bring Mokoro to life. ERE Foundation, a French philanthropic organisation that calls for accountability from fashion industry creatives, were a natural fit. “We favour projects that are impactful and positive while being creatively convincing. And Mokoro united all of that,” Strobele says.

“It was a true team collaboration,” says Ford. “Kristin scouted the spots that would provide the best setting for the pictures. Yann took his time to address the outfits and understand how each girl felt about her hair. The girls were always closely escorted by Joan, making sure they felt comfortable and confident. And Emmanuelle and Sophie interviewed Joan and the girls to tell the story in all its beauty and strength.”

Following the Paris show, Mokoro will be shown in Nairobi and at the V&A Museum during London Design Festival 17-25 September in association with Nataal. This visual story also appears in issue three of Nataal, which is out 28 June.

ERE Foundation and Farago Projects will continue to supply long-term support and exposure to Warembo Wasanii, helping them develop their skills and laying the groundwork for future projects.

Mokoro is on view at Gallery Mercier et Associes, 3 Rue Dupont de L’Eure, 75020 Paris, from 24 to 25 June 2022.

In collaboration with the WAREMBO WASANII in Korogocho, Nairobi, Kenya.