Bruce Lee and Elvis Presley might seem like unlikely bedfellows but with an aesthetic as strong as Nicholas Daley’s, the designer can draw on pretty much any influence and the end result will emerge gloriously necessary. For SS21, entitled Stepping Razor, his signature use of heritage textiles and craftsmanship, as well as his much-loved high-waisted, double-pleat trousers and fluid, fitting shirts, are all there and as excellent as ever.

The Londoner’s superpower is to bring together seemingly disparate worlds and intertwine them into one cohesive collection. “This season I really wanted to explore the intersection between music and martial arts through such music icons as Elvis Presley and Peter Tosh who were both black belts in karate and embodied this fusion between east and west,” Daley explains. “I also referenced Jim Kelly, who plays Williams in one my all-time favourite films Enter the Dragon. He was the first black action martial artist and true pioneer. And then Bruce Lee for his interesting ways of combining both eastern and western styles and propelling marital arts forward into popular culture globally.”

Daley, who was recently the recipient of the LVMH Prize 2020, has long forged abiding partnerships with British mills. This season sees Sudbury’s silk-weaving company Vanners, Dundee’s Halley Stevensons who are renowned for waxed cottons, and Cotswolds-based Courtney & Co who were on hand with natural corozo buttons. Echoing his inspirations, Daley has also once again made use of traditional Japanese fabrics. Artisanal dye specialists created bespoke tie-dyes while subtle sashiko embroidery can be found on the karate Gi, which is central to the collection.

Bringing the narrative into the present, he enlisted former World and European Champion and Britain’s first Olympic karateka, Jordan Thomas - who was due to represent Britain at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics - to model the collection. Thomas was instrumental in helping Daley to spread his gospel about the richness of multiculturalism.

“One important message I wanted to convey for SS21 was showcasing black British excellence, especially during a time when, politically and socially, the world is taking notice,” Daley explains. “Continuing my ethos of intertwining worlds and supporting the wider community, Jordan Thomas is the focal character for this season. His father was also a highly decorated karate champion, so it is great to shine the light on such a rich legacy.” And adding yet more depth to the conversation, Osaka-born, London-based photographer Piczo was behind the lens.

The title of the collection is taken from Peter Tosh’s 1977 debut single. “Peter stood for revolution, self-empowerment and a strong political stance on equality for all. This is why I paid homage to him,” he explains. Music is always instrumental to Daley’s work and London Fashion Week presentations so who is on rotation at the moment? “Right now, I’m listening to Mansur Brown’s Tesuto, and Shabaka Hutchinson and the Ancestors’ We Are Sent Here By History,” he reveals. “Both artists continue to push the boundaries musically and highlight the depth of talent we have in the UK.”

Read our review of Nicholas Daley SS20 here

Words Miriam Bouteba
Photography Piczo

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Published on 05/08/2020