As the schedule shrinks and Caroline Rush bids farewell to the British Fashion Council top spot, can London still deliver the drama, passion and fashion we crave? After a whirlwind of London Fashion Week AW25 shows by both emerging and established names, Nataal can report that the answer is, absolutely yes…

Our first stop was Harris Reed, who brought us to the beautiful setting of Tate Britain where champagne flowed and the air hummed with anticipation. Then, the lights dimmed, and the show began with an opulent bang. A 1960s-inspired black-tie silhouette glided down the runway, but wait for it, a gold-ornamented bra! Sharp, spiked, like a rebellious lotus flower. It was couture with a rock-god heart. Harris, as always, was unapologetically maximalist as each extreme ensemble revealed itself in all of its sculptural, bodice-like wonder. This collection was a love letter to punk, a fearless expression of freedom. Suddenly, I found myself pondering, where does the armour end, and where do we begin?

Next up, Pandora’s collaboration with Ahluwalia, aptly hosted at Michelin-starred Nigerian restaurant Ikoyi. The collection showcased Ahluwalia’s signature prints on golden hearts and love padlocks. Playful yet meaningful, it was accessible and inclusive without sacrificing substance. Priya Ahluwalia continues to democratise fashion, blending depth with style through an exploration of her Indo-Nigerian heritage.

Then, Paul Costelloe, who swept us away with equestrian elegance. The collection was timeless, spacious and paid tribute to Harris Tweed from Scotland and Magee Heritage knitwear from Ireland. Those horse shoe bags? Total must-haves. Bora Aksu took us on an emotional rollercoaster, drawing inspiration from Empress Elisabeth of Austria. Regal elegance met raw emotion; delicacy met defiance. The collection was full of contrasts, with soft lace hinting at hidden turbulence. It was a celebration of vulnerability and strength.

Completedworks, the brainchild of Anna Jewsbury, turned jewellery and ceramics into a stage show as actor Debi Mazar appeared on stage to express frustration mixed with fabulousness, her angles draped in the brand’s signature oversized pearls and organic gold shapes. Similarly emotive, Di Petsa by Dimitra Petsa worshipped at the feet of a Greek goddess with draping techniques that defied gravity. The menswear was bold and avant-garde, evoking ancient sculptures with a modern twist.

Richard Quinn’s snow-dusted show felt like stepping into a mid-century film. It was a love letter to London through each meticulously crafted evening gown festooned with bows, roses and feathers. In a world of fast fashion, Quinn remains a reminder that what adorns our bodies is meant to be cherished. And over at Annie’s Ibiza, it was all about a warrior’s spirit. Designer Annie Doble channelled Joan of Arc with intricate beadwork smothering her party-ready dresses. The new treasure chest bag? Already on our wish list.

Always a Nataal LFW highlight, Roksanda didn’t disappoint. This season, Ilinčić told three distinct stories. First, the everyday woman: structured suits with geometric silhouettes in maroon, burgundy and electric blue. Classic, timeless, yet undeniably modern. Second, the playful woman: oversized coats, fringe and vibrant prints – perfect for a cheeky night out at Chiltern. And third, Roksanda the sculptor: live sculpting on the runway, 3D foam dresses and skirts coming to life before our eyes. She’s free, she’s alive, and she’s redefining what it means to be an artist in fashion.

Kent & Curwen beckoned us to the Foreign & Commonwealth Office to witness a collection as grand as its setting. The show began with the sound of a train station – familiar, comforting. The first look? A preppy, structured black dress with exaggerated shoulders and a golden rose on the heart. The collection unfolded with staple pieces that radiated sophistication and quality. This is luxury. Designer Daniel Kearns paid homage to the brand’s heritage while pushing into the future to create an offering that felt timeless and indispensable.

And harnessing an equally iconic venue, Labrum London gave praise to UK grime at Abbey Road Studios. More of a concert than a fashion show, designer Foday Dumbuya brought together a line-up of legends to bring to life his take on ‘Sounds of Us’. Ezra Collective supplied the heart beat while Akaka, Wretch 32, Ghetts and D Double E provided the lungs. Pa Salieu brought his swagger to proceedings alongside models wearing hard-working foundational pieces made from previous season fabrics. An authentic display of craftsmanship, and community, and of music and migration. It’s events like these that continue to make London Fashion Week truly one of a kind.