Zainab and Shaheed Martin tell us about their conscious concept space
Zainab and Shaheed Martin, the mother and son behind nuun, describe their endeavour as a “concept space” rooted in sustainability that is “guided by feeling and designed with sensitivity.” The duo aim to create a fluid experience that captures all that they are: “Undefined and unrestricted, and existing only out of a necessity to create,” they say. It’s a bold undertaking and one that has won the hearts of South Africa’s in-the-know fans of considered fashion.
The initial seeds were sown by Zainab, who had been making abayas (long dresses) for many years and stocking them in stores in the Middle East. Shaheed, who has an architecture degree from the University of Cape Town, started offering his perspective and nuun took shape. They began showing some of their ideas at the tail end of 2019 and have gone on to further define nuun as both an atelier and a way of thinking that is constantly being redefined. “In essence the space is a conversation between two people stretched across two continents, existing in physical moments that allow for engagement with our audience,” the duo note.
“We challenge ourselves to create something completely beautiful and unexpected without compromise”
nuun pays homage to and celebrates the cultural histories and lineages that inform and inspire Zainab and Shaheed. This feeds into their overarching aesthetic perspective; the symbols and silhouettes, as well as their environmental principles, use of raw materials and techniques. “We are determined to create a platform to showcase the knowledge and innovative teachings of our people which have been neglected in order to meet and satisfy global fast fashion standards,” they say. “With each day we challenge ourselves to create something completely beautiful and unexpected without compromise.”
The Muslim culture to which nuun’s creators ascribe calls for modest attire. nuun translate this into a “flowing and fluid” style of dressing achieved through the layering and twisting of natural fabrics, a playful use of proportions and minimalist perspective. “Although our designs are an ode to our culture, our intentions are not to make the covering of the body the focal point,” the creators explain. “We want people to notice the design before they realise that it happens to be a modest garment.” As such, nuun also offers pieces that are more revealing or body conscious but which can be paired with other pieces to suit the wearer’s needs.
While their simple, high-quality pieces have won the hearts of SA’s au courant fashion community, it was their 100% biodegradable packaging that recently caused something of a stir on social media. Unlike many other eco-friendly plastics on the market, nuun’s material is derived from a polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and starch formulation that easily dissolves in water in a few minutes. The material is non-toxic, reusable, and carbon negative. And the ingredients become reusable nutrients, therefore the water in which the product is dissolved can be used to water your garden. Their initial research led them to reach out to local packaging companies, only to find the fashion industry in South Africa in dire need of an alternative solution. “To be more efficient, we opted to acquire packaging to suit our aesthetic from outsourced providers,” they say. “We then thought that if we struggled, there must be many other smaller brands out there with the same good intent but no feasible solution.”
The Martins refer to all the pieces they create as part of a continuous collection that is forever growing. Currently, they are offering their biodegradable packaging as well as their t-shirts to other brands, allowing for a greater positive environmental impact and a step toward a climate-positive space. Each t-shirt is made from recycled plastic bottles that have been collected around Cape Town. By purchasing this item, the consumer funds the planting of olive trees in Palestine via the charity Muslin Hands, and as demand grows, so will the number of trees planted. “The end result of sustainability is to create a more conscious society. It is ultimately an attempt to rid our communities of deep-rooted systemic inequalities,” the nuun founders conclude.
This article was created in collaboration with Letterhead.