Vlisco&co is dreaming big dreams with its new initiative Print Futures 1.0. The experimental arm of Vlisco Group (whose high quality Dutch wax print fabrics have been ubiquitous across West and Central Africa for over 120 years) was initially established in 2017 by creative director Gabriela Sánchez y Sánchez de la Barquera as a research project to meaningfully connect the brand with new African creativity. She began her mission by travelling extensively throughout the region to build networks, learn, research and make inspiring content with the visionary talents she connected with. Across six editions in Ghana, Nigeria and Côte d'Ivoire, a wealth of outcomes ranged from photo series and films to one-off collections, each culminating in an evening of discovery and debate. Artists involved included Daniel Obasi, Trevor Stuurman, Tokyo James, Gozel Green, Jessica Sarkodie and Asna Aidara.

With these foundations in place, Vlisco&co hosted its first Print Futures workshop in Abidjan in December 2019. This month-long experience was aimed to reaching young talents interested in textile design and exploring what the role of African-made printed textiles could become. “It wasn’t formal or commercial, we didn’t preach or teach,” says Gabriela. “Instead, we asked the participants to consider questions like, what would you draw about monsters? Or tell us about a dream you once had? Can you design a country and its inhabitants? The exercises were improvised each day. And then we threw a party. After that I thought we should put together a group of designers based in Africa and begin an African-made brand.”

Then the Covid-19 pandemic hit and so after a period of strategising, they devised the new digital activation, Print Futures 1.0, with a pan-African approach. Vlisco&co put out an open call in Abidjan, Accra, Cotonou, Kinshasa, Lagos and Lomé and out of over 100 applicants, 12 participants were selected, all under 25 years old. Each received a tool kit of professional art materials and access to a work station where they could take part in the intensive three-month workshop.

“The idea was to help the participants identify their strongest skills and develop their handwriting in order to come up with a final collection. They all worked hard and put in so much energy,” Gabriela says. “At the end we had a presentation and I was in tears because of the deep creative narratives behind each of their prints. They expressed their visions for the future of their countries in bold, daring and original ways that drew both on modernity and their roots. We had no pre-conceived ideas about the outcome but the workshop showed us that education is all about dialogue and that to be a good print designer you don’t need to use Adobe Illustrator, or have attended an institution. It’s about being go-getting, passionate and having a story to tell.”

The collections formed an online exhibition and then a jury of experts - Chu Suwannapha of Chulaap, Bubu Ogisi of IAmIsigo, Papa Oyeyemi from Maxivive, Rebecca Zoro of Yhebe Design and Kader Diaby - selected three winners who each received state of the art design equipment. Chu was very impressed by the standard of work presented. “Each designer brought new dimensions to African print. They really pushed their concepts and colour combinations to create prints that felt original, youthful and positive. I’d call it hip-pop-art,” he says. “Global trends are always inspired by Africa, so we must all work together to produce textiles here in Africa and building opportunities for young designers, which will go on to create employment and elevate economies.”

Now, the real challenge is how to bring the winners’ prints to fruition as an affordable ready to wear collection - printed, made and sold in a dedicated store in Abidjan - as well as worldwide online. Gabriela is busy researching fabrics and finding a location in the city that can act as an atelier, store, exhibition and mentorship space within which to launch the brand in 2022. “We want to join forces with the winners to sell their designs and to support them with the royalties. This is my vision. It’s okay if we start small and use a slower way of making. I’m ready to make this happen,” Gabriela asserts.

She is also in talks with a number of European design schools about collaborating on further workshops that could ready designers in West Africa to build portfolios and apply for jobs. “I want Vlisco&co to be about education. We can go into neighbourhoods and host workshops that create jobs in design or production. Vlisco has been in Africa for over 170 years. We have the infrastructure, so why not try to do something? I don’t mean give back and all those clichés, but to truly invest in the youth.”

Here we meet the three winners to find out more their work.

Kwaku Darteh - Accra

Kwaku Darteh studied computer programming before specialising in graphics and web design and now has his own t-shirt brand (Bfee). He’s also the founder of the networking group Artwork Nation. “Every aspect of the workshop was mind opening but the exercises around painting, shapes and collage took me to a level I really enjoyed. I also learnt so much about fabric printing,” Kwaku says.

His final design, ‘Balance’, was about “finding yourself and being yourself through balance,” he explains. “Inspirations came from exploring my surroundings and all walks of life.” As he anticipates the project going into production, Kwaku hopes they’ll incite new dialogues. “As a pan African, I have always loved African prints as a means of solidifying where we're coming from. They are a confidence builder, a sort of a sexy charm. My designs hold the qualities and messages of the future. I believe they will change lives and connect borders.”

Dara Hinmikaiye – Lagos

Dara Hinmikaiye is currently studying visual arts at the University of Lagos and uses a variety of media including watercolour, ink and oil paint alongside digital programmes to explore her fascination with repeat patterns and distinctive colours. Citing inspirations as far reaching as Araki Hirohiko and Alphonse Mucha, Print Futures 1.0 saw her delve into collage and calligraphy. “The most informative sessions for me were where we were asked to illustrate what our imaginary planets would look like and ideas around it such as its slogan, flag, cities, people and map,” she says.

Her final collection, ‘Nose Dive’, stemmed from her obsession with clouds and nature. “Nose Dive is a free fall into a realm of expressive design not restricted by human rules. The design was done using gouache, markers and ink and then digitally manipulated, which was very satisfying. I want my designs to have a positive impact on the wearer and remind them to continually express who they are.”

Sounfungoward Coulibaly – Abidjan

Sounfungoward Coulibaly has a masters in graphic design and works as a freelance 2D, 3D and animation artist. “If a viewer stops for a moment to look, feel and reflect on a work I have created, then I have succeeded,” he says of his work. “I’m always looking for opportunities that promote creative exchanges and Vlisco&co’s workshop was precisely that.”

Having enjoyed the practical sessions in painting and drawing, his final collection, ‘Totem&co’, was about a planet inhabited by inanimate creatures. “My inspiration came from the aura that the totems would give off and creating a universe in which they would be the most alive,” he adds. “I hope these designs inspire a new wave of designers and a wider public to take an interest in African printed textiles.”