Ntando XV

Ntando Ngwenya’s AW20 collection, entitled Project 0.8, was inspired by communal living during Apartheid and how that influenced South Africans to follow and recycle foreign influences to form their own identity. Based in Pretoria, this emerging menswear designer presented a largely denim collection balancing experimental cuts with subtle colonial references.

A bib-like white collar was paired with hanging cords and denim kilts that felt functional and contemporary. Meanwhile flowing drapery had a controlled simplicity. Ngwenya went on to decorate shirts and trousers with abstract scribbled patterns. Standout looks included an off-tangerine kimono-style jacket paired with a green two-piece and the finale shawl-like padded structural pieces, which added a dramatic flair.

De Mil

De Mil’s creative director, Coenraad De Mol, presented at SAFW as one of the two recipients of the 2019 Cape Wools Mohair SA Designer award. With that prize came the opportunity to use locally sourced and ethically produced wool and mohair, which became the foundation of this collection. Richly textured fabrics and ideas taken from 18th century dress resulted in breeches and pantaloons reworked into avant-garde overalls, new takes on fall-front trousers and appealing boiler suits and rompers.

De Mol, who first launched his brand in 1997, also showed off his flair for expert draping and progressive, gender-fluid cuts, as spotted in a robe worn under a sleeveless open shoulder tunic and suits and coats that could be worn by men and women. The details were layered, slouched, pleated, woven and checkered in winter gray hues with occasional hints of mustard and green.

Reign

An artisanal spirit came through in the newly launched line from design duo Sipho Mbutho and Ben Nozo. Their first RTW collection was titled UCU: A Zulu Love Letter. “The concept stems from the Zulu word meaning string (of beads), single strand," the duo said. In Zulu culture, Ucu is given as a gift when two people start a relationship. Restrained silhouettes featured patchwork detailing with a focus on the waistline thanks to thin belts and tiny envelope waist bags. No two looks were the same in a collection that championed individualism. Standout items included a layered skirt with heavy appliqué and a soft blue shirt with checked panels that tie on the front.

Floyd Avenue

Floyd Manotana designs with the goal of breaking the restrictions of conservative black culture, and with this collection, European ideas imposed on South Africa’s black community. The Johannesburg-based designer presented modern basics and wardrobe classics with slim cuts and cropped hemlines. His vision first played out in distressed jeans, drop-crotched cargo pants and a new age denim tuxedo. The best thing about the collection though was its utilitarian feel, such as the fitted jackets and zippered decorations that ensured its commercial appeal.

Research Unit

Research Unit presented a precise collection modeled around the duffel bags and fanny packs that the brand is well known for. The luxury travel goods company, by design duo Erin-Lee and Chad Petersen, works with local artisan communities to create their sustainable line of products. Entitled Pilgrim, AW20 was their first foray in a full womenswear offering and saw them take inspiration by facets of meditative spirituality and travel. That translated into streetwear references across anorak dresses, oversized flight jackets, silk pleated skirts and leather jackets in pristine whites, calming violets and earthy browns that evoked a sense of serenity.

Otiz Seflo

With this collection, designer Otsile Sefolo offered his male clientele familiar pieces that were given a new extravagant life thanks to either shimmering decorations or sensual cuts. The show opened with a series of shirts, trousers and shorts covered in frayed swatches that lent them a floaty, feathery effect. It then progressed onto sleek modern tailoring including jackets with saucy cut-outs and gold butterfly brooches shoulders paired with dashiki-style shirting and a wrap suit with a mandarin collar. He balanced this high energy with casual pajama styles that came buttoned and again, wrapped.

Danielle Frylinck

Danielle Frylinck’s Johannesburg-based womenswear brand is known for its timeless, hand tailored looks. This season, she presented a beautifully curated workwear wardrobe. The cuts were lengthy and billowy, creating modest silhouettes. Highlights included a berry hued short-sleeved coat worn over a mesh skirt and a vintage-inspired felt suit. The beauty in these clothes emanated from the brand’s intricately cut patterns that come alive thanks to rich colours, flower appliqué and pleated satins. Bamboo bags and bangles came from Carry On and shoes from Matsidiso, a nod to the designer’s love of local collaborations.

Mantsho

It’s been a busy year for Mantsho by Palesa Mokubung after becoming the first African brand to collaborate with H&M this August. At SAFW, Mantsho unveiled a small celebratory collection that nodded to its bright future as well the designer’s well-loved classics. Familiar tulle skirts were paired with blazers and kimono dresses with plenty of ruffle and bow details. Mokubung played around with high volumes, from flared dresses to exaggerated playful sleeves in a variation of deep green, brown, and mustard tones.

Judith Atelier

Judith Atelier by Judith Smit proved to be one of the highlights of SAFW with her idea of a timeless wardrobe. Her clothes came in beautifully constructed shapes with a captivating artistic motif featuring on coats, dresses and pants. The collars were structured and layered, and sometimes overflowed beyond the shoulder, reaching exquisite heights. These were clothes for the confident woman who revels in her femininity. The mood was light and bright, and in the end, when the local designer emerged in an elegant floor length dress to take a bow, it was clear that at least some of her inspiration came from herself.

Franc Elis

In Cameroonian-born, South African-based designer, Fabrice Moyo’s hands, Franc Elis conjured up the man of many colourful characters for AW20. There was a sense of playfulness to the collection that included overalls that came with a shirt and a blazer hung over the shoulder and belted suits that certainly commanded attention. The best looks had a strong sense of casual ease and a bold use of colour, such as an effortless lounge suit in a glossy mint fabric, a boxy cropped blue suit and a series of pale pink tweed two-pieces.

Words Innocent N

Photography Your Fine Photography, Maleéne Hinrichsen, Sathia Pather

Published on 05/12/2019