I.AM.ISIGO evokes the spirit of Queen Nyabingi for SS24. This formidable ancestor, whose name means ‘mother of abundance’, has an influence that stems from the 18th century Nande tribe of Rwanda, Tanzania and Uganda and spreads as far as Jamaica, where she has represented women’s agency in Rastafarian beliefs. Nyabingi spoke through priestesses known as Bagirwa – traditional healers who donned bark cloth veils to enter paranormal states and channel her prophetic wisdoms. And so, in this season’s film and campaign – debuted here on Nataal – we meet Nyabingi once more, as she moves through a Kenyan landscape to bring forth the transformative strength of Mother Nature.

Entitled ‘Shadows’, the new collection continues to evolve the brand’s nomadic approach to creating wearable art pieces steeped in pan-African craftsmanship. Creative director and fibre artist Bubu Ogisi worked with artisans to develop a bark cloth from the mutumba tree in Uganda and shape bronze accessories in Benin City. The use of cotton contributes to the post-colonial conversation around global fashion systems while PVC and polyamide mesh reflect her innovative approach to constantly evolving traditional textiles from her workshops in Lagos and Accra. “It’s the work of the hands that connects us all,” Ogisi says. “The slow processes of making in places where everyone still believes that they can bring objects to life from nothing, is why it’s important to go through borders to create a collective magic.”

Stand out looks include corseted silhouettes, either long and lean or fully textured, and crocheted vest dresses in shades of cream, black and brown, which are paired with wide brimmed hats, glass-blown mini bags and amulet-like jewellery. “The colour palette signifies femininity, healing and protection against malevolent spirits,” Ogisi adds. “The use of brown and black, dyed with Lawsonia inermis, is deeply symbolic, representing spirituality and the connection of the soul to one's ancestors, age, maturity, and ability.”

A final inspirational spell is cast by the“anti-hegemonic poem” by Paul Celan (above), reminding us of the power of cloth and of intellectually rigorous style to uplift the creative self and counter the dominant narratives of late capitalism that continue to disempower Africa. “We hope to bridge the gap between the rich cultural heritage of Africa and the demands of a contemporary world, fostering a deeper understanding of the significance of textiles and design in our lives. Through these creations, we aim to infuse the spirit of Queen Nyabingi, of transformation, and of unity into every fibre and stitch.”