London has always been renowned as the breeding ground for young and experimental talent, the place where future big-names are discovered and nurtured. Think McQueen, Galliano, Westwood. At London Fashion Week AW23, not only did it feel like we were back to the full throttle theatrics of pre-pandemic times thanks to such pizzaz-full shows as David Koma, Annie’s Ibiza and Bora Aksu - it was also pleasing to see that emerging names are continuing to come through and show strong collections, many of whom from diverse backgrounds. Here are some of Nataal’s highlights.

Feben

Ethiopian/Swedish designer Feben Vemmenby continued her study of tarot by looking at The Chariot card and its ethos of hardship and enduring strength. We suffer, we overcome. This dichotomy manifested in stark contrasts between hard and soft. A black ankle-length gown with Feben’s signature twist technique (a puckering of the fabric so that it looks like it has been shrunken in molten lava) was followed by a flowy blue cocktail dress that was ready to dance. Looks moved between the stern, such as a short twist frock worn with a snakeskin coat and cropped shearling vest, to the frivolous, such as in a chainmail dress made of glass beads and fringing. Yes Jorja Smith took to the runway but Feben is a brand that deserves all the hype it receives.

Mowalola

Mowalola Ogunlesi was not officially on-schedule at LFW but highjacked the limelight nonetheless, like just in Paris last year. This season she presented Dark Web, which took on the human battle against techtopia shaped through the lens of a Y2K NYC apocalypse. Think low slung, thigh-exposing jeans, bootleg logo baseball jackets and scary hand prints. As ever, there was the signature play with leather on everything from micro mini and full-length skirts, to trousers with crotch cut-outs and itty-bitty bikinis. Mowalola’s mo’ fire resistance has never been stronger and for AW23 it most certainly got ahead of the algorithm.

Yaku Stapleton at CSM MA

The Central Saint Martins MA show sparkled with new names but it was Yaku Stapleton who won the L'Oréal Professionel Creative Award 2023 judged by Ib Kamara. His collection, The Impossible Family Reunion in RPG Space, used the Afrofuturism movement as a way to investigate his own family’s past. That presented itself in puffer vests and puffer coats that looked like organisms that had multiplied or mutated. The sci-fi mood continued until the closing look: massive camo cargo pants, big sweater and a woollen headpiece complete with a Hammer of Thor accessory.

Fikile Sokhulu at Creative DNA

South African designer Fikile Sokhulu was one of seven sustainable designers from across Africa to show as part of Creative DNA: Africa, a British Fashion Council and Fashion Scout incubator programme. What makes Sokhulu’s work so compelling is its ability to look classical, Victorian even, yet maintain a contemporary appeal. The messages underpinning the clothes focus on femininity, empowerment and strength. For the Fashion Scout installation, she showed two looks from her Black Diamond collection, both billowing tops worn with long skirts in a palette of gold, beige and white, and smothered in striking tiers of cotton and chiffon.

Labrum

Labrum continued to expertly explore personal narratives of the African diaspora for AW23. Sierra Leone-born Foday Dumbuya took over Brixton Village for the show (rumour has it piping Burberry to the post) to highlight the area as the symbolic heart of so many Caribbean and diaspora migrant communities in London. The collection, From Greener Pastures, was inspired by the forms of communication migrants use to stay connected with the families they’ve left behind. Creative direction by Julianknxx, live music and performance from the Baliamaya Project, poetry from Inua Ellams and set design by Yinka Ilori set the mood for Labrum’s nostalgic and joyful line-up. Tailoring in muted shades took centre stage thanks to precise suits and cropped blazers with sharp shoulders and multiple pleats. These mixed with a stand out varsity jacket, passport stamp print trench and must-have denim pieces.

Nosakhari

Nosakhari is the work of Nigerian-born Nosa Osadolor whose brand crafts the highest quality leather accessories in east London. Making its LFW debut with a pop-up store in Piccadilly, the AW23 collection, NK 15, told stories of the djembe West African drum. A theme continued from SS23, a large rounded handbag borrowed its curve from the elegant shape of the instrument while a briefcase was floppy at the top and boasted an interchangeable hood. The brand also provided the bags for Labrum’s show. Self-made, made in the UK, independent and African, Nosakhari serves as inspiration for other upcoming designers.

Harri

Indian-born Harri KS is a recent LCF MA graduate and New Gen recipient. Fresh off the high of dressing Sam Smith for The BRIT Awards, this his second season at LFW saw Harri take his inflated balloon-shape rubber silhouettes, which have unsurprisingly gone viral, and evolve them into a more nuanced proposition. The performance-based presentation curated in partnership with KK Obi, saw dancers move through the space emoting the idea that ‘Life is a Cabaret’ by wearing these key latex pieces with beaded skirts, textured knitwear and printed sports jackets. More bounce to the ounce? Yes please.

Pronounce

Pronounce by Chinese designers Yushan Li and Jun Zho has been, for a number of seasons, the insider’s must-see show: wearable yet innovative while exploring the idea of ‘gender sharing’. This season was no exception as the duo dived into ancient forms of communication in China, namely knotting notes, oracle bones and tortoise shell inscriptions. These inspirations informed some beautifully crafted slouchy wool trousers, sweaters and coats, mostly in beiges and winter browns, with pops of colour such as in an oversized pink vest that could have been a mini-dress and a mauve twisted suit. A complete offering with exquisite detailing.

Untitldlab

Based between Shanghai and London, Untitldlab showed its unisex footwear collection at LFW for the first time. The immersive presentation took place in a crypt where several performance artists took over the space by making haunting sounds, hammering surfaces, wrecking a motorbike and making acrobatic movements in piles of trash. This exploration of the “emotional vibrations of human presence” felt aligned with the futuristic leanings of the shoes themselves, chunky boots, rubbery trainers and pointed mules equipping their wearer for the wild frontier.

Hadari

Hadari is designed by Yoav Hadari, a neurodivergent queer Jewish designer who this year looked into their family’s past with mental health issues. The ex-Thom Browne designer exposed a sense of vulnerability through garments with unhemmed edges. Taking the onlooker through the creating process, existing garments had been ripped into shreds and then turned into new textiles. All fabric used is sustainable, taken from luxury dead stock. Hadari is currently a Sarande Foundation Scholar and primed to go far.