“It’s extremely random and it happens 24/7 – I’m constantly looking to be inspired. But usually it’s triggered by a sentence or a piece of art. Next comes a lot of research and the reworking of a visual or text, which I measure the collection against.” We’re speaking to Tiaan Nagel about his design process, which is responsible for some of the most elegant womenswear coming out of South Africa right now.

The established name has recently returned from a design hiatus with his reinvented eponymous label. Taking its cues from traditional South African studio pottery and the poetry of Ntokozo Mbokazi, Nagel’s latest collection, Remember You Are Summer, is awash with fluid silhouettes, natural colours and gentle details. Think floaty skirts with soft gathering at their waist and blouses that have been constructed with intricate necklines. “I actually knew nothing about Ntokozo Mbokazi until I read a piece in Klyntjie mag and the words just struck a cord. This triggered some sleeve silhouettes, the slouchy selection of styling and the romantic but not pretty design element,” he says of the collection’s softest pieces.

Eschewing trends while still remaining plugged into what’s next is how Nagel manages to create work that’s simultaneously timeless and relevant. “I think it’s important to conceptualise and produce pieces that can fit into your wardrobe over different seasons. It’s about the evolution of a wardrobe rather than the ‘it’ piece that you have to have,” he muses. “While a large portion of the fashion industry revolves around hype and hysteria, it’s just not part of my DNA. Being plugged into the zeitgeist is crucial though because my whole reason for designing is that I have a point of view.”

Making use of sustainable textiles, his designs are both beautiful and wearable. They’re cut from a combination of dead stock fabrics, collected over the years from defunct fabric mills, natural silks and linens that have been dyed by hand, and cottons and lightweight wools woven in small batches. “I can’t produce thousands of meters exclusively in Italy, so for me it’s about hunting down exclusive rolls of fabrics which are like interesting puzzle pieces that I can put together,” he reveals. “My business is small now and I’m sure things will change when we expand but for now this works for us.”

Nagel’s refined reputation precedes him. He graduated from LISOF in 2004 and gained experience with Clive Rundell before first launching his label in 2007, winning the Elle New Talent award. More recently he worked as an editor for some of South Africa’s most prestigious lifestyle publications. Now returning to womenswear wholeheartedly, he has also opened a deliciously subdued flagship store in the leafy suburb of Hyde Park Corner. Chocolate shades and natural textures act as a cradle for his collection alongside a careful curation of local design objects.

“I like things to be relatively polished and sophisticated and so started looking at interior photos of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge’s apartment which was designed by Jacques Grange,” he says. “I then worked with Phillipe van der Merwe [of Tonic Design] on creating a warm space that reflects the character that lives in that space. She loves art, collects books and fine jewellery… it’s a little bourgeoise and very chic.”

Nagel is most concerned shaping a fresh approach to craftsmanship and modern luxury within the local context. “As tired as those words can be, it’s about redefining it as young, white, South African and trying to not fall into the pitfalls of those concepts.” It’s through his work that he’s challenging established narratives of his home country and instead presenting something real. “It’s about being honest about my privileged past and transparent about what informs my process and what I believe in. By employing and understanding people from different backgrounds and allowing for that to shape our daily conversation. By not just approaching African design from a ‘happy brightly filled Ndebele’ filter or shooting a black model standing in a township in couture with an old fucked BMW in the background. Things don’t change until you introduce a new perspective.”

Given his wealth of experience across the industry, Nagel is well placed to change the script with his deeply considered and progressive aesthetic. “Fashion imagery is complicated and is mostly controlled by huge marketing budgets and it seems the focus is on Africa or pretending to be African or an ally to Africa – it’s forced and seems sad. For me it’s about reflecting your reality and in return shaping the conversation about what is African and, in my case, South African.”

Words Miriam Bouteba
Photography Travys Owen
Model Noelle Graobe
Make-up Lesley Whitby

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Published on 09/02/2020