When it comes to fashion and styling, Bee Diamondhead is a well-established personality in South Africa. Between her international work with adidas and Puma, in addition to cross-continental work with Woolworths and H&M, she has brought her futuristic, proudly black ethos to every project. Here, Diamondhead presents her tribute to 16 South African designers with Nataal. Driven by a commitment to homegrown talent, and the creation of personal shoots which push the industry’s boundaries, this series of images, created in partnership with artist Lunga Ntila and shot by Tatenda Chidora, is a love letter to the power and potential of her home’s best design talents.

What was the initial idea behind this special project?

I came up with this when we went into level three of lockdown. I did a lot of test shoots during that time; I guess I was feeling very constricted so I wanted to do happy work. I've been in the industry for over 16 years and so this was about celebrating the young fashion designers that have helped me along the way. It's a tribute to the new school really. I’m very proud of them.

Talk to me about the intention behind putting Tribute together.

My career has always been about kicking the door open for people it hasn't been open to. I'm greatly appreciative of how many rooms I'm allowed into and I don't take it for granted. I feel I have a duty to use my gifts to walk others into these spaces. For this I wanted to work with designers that inspire me and that I source from often. And it was very important for me to work with a young black team to create this because they need it the most. The more opportunities we have to create, the better we get at our craft.

What did partnering with Lunga Ntila on collaging the images add to the project?

I didn’t want just normal, one dimensional images, so I thought it would be cool to merge two looks into one. Lunga did such a great job - she's insanely talented and has such a strong point of view. I feel honoured that she agreed to do this with me.

What is your approach to creative direction?

I shoot dreams. I dream in fashion and images. I can't remember the last time I had a 'normal' dream! Once it's in my brain I immediately text friends I think would be a perfect fit for the project and we just go! I don't have a pause. But I'm a very strict editor because every detail matters.

South African designers are having an international moment now but local shoppers still lean towards mainstream luxury brands. How do you make sense of this?

South Africa has always been a little slow to catch onto trends. And because of our socio-political climate, how and where we spend our money is hugely affected. We desperately want to catch up with the rest of the world in terms of luxury, unfortunately we don't see products made at home as luxurious or worth their price tag. But we need to bring it back home because we will lose all our talent to Europe. We need to invest in local, sustainable wardrobes that we can always hold dear and wear with pride because it was created for us.

In what ways do you think the local scene has evolved in recent years and where do you think we still have work to do?

There is confidence now. I think that has been brought on by Instagram, the internet and sharing. The more you share the more popular you become and that breeds confidence. What we need to work more on is collaboration with people that we respect so that the final work is stronger. Quality control is important.

How do you want to improve and grow in your work?

I work a lot from fear. I'd like to explore more mediums. When I was younger, I used to draw, paint and write so well but I lost all of those skills at some point. I need to learn how to let go and just create. Be like water.

We have to talk about 2020. It’s been a tumultuous one. What has changed about your practice and yourself?

To slow down. Before I used to just jump in without looking. I started going to therapy at the beginning of the year and it helped me look at myself properly. I'm learning to pause. Everything must change, it needs to feel soft. It’s like we've all been at war for so long and normalised it. This thing of treating creatives like a sweatshop doesn't serve us. It's time to look after ourselves and each other. I'm excited for the meaningful work that comes out of that.

Creative direction and styling Bee Diamondhead
Photography Tatenda Chidora
Artwork collage Lunga Ntila commissioned by Bee Diamondhead
Make-up Tammi Mbambo, Alex Botha, Nombuso Ngcobo
Hair Saadique Ryklief

Models
Amaka Kopano Faith
Noelle, Michael, Michaela and Lethabo at Boss
Ketia, Pona, Tamara and Tshepo at My Friend Ned
Mosa at ISIS, Freddy,  and Tumi.

Fashion assistance Lethabo Motlatle, Larry Asmah, Thabisile Msibi and Siwa Mgoboza
Photography assistance Lerato Mbawu
Studio House of Queen Studios
Lighting and camera equipment SunshineCo.
Words and special thanks Binwe Adebayo at Baby Mogul

Fashion
Adidas
Brown Sugar
By Dineo
Keith Virgo
MaxHosa Africa
Lara Klawikowski
Lukhanyo Mdingi
MmusoMaxwell
Nao Serati
Nuun Concepts
Rich Mnisi
Siyababa
Thebe Magugu
Tiaan Nagel
Uni form
Wanda Lephoto
Xzavier Zulu

Published on 19/10/2020