Wanda Lephoto’s AW21 collection explores how South African style continues to confront colonialism

 

Wanda Lephoto’s AW21 collection, entitled Black Renaissance, is as much a fashion statement as a research project that dives deeply into the impact British colonialism has had on South Africa’s identity and dress practices. Looking specifically at the years 1850 to 1994, which the designer says “represent years of oppression, suppression and liberation, not only of our people but of dreams”, he seeks to understand how today’s melting pot of aesthetics has come to pass, and how representation can be re-imagined freely in future.

 
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“This idea of how craftsmanship from the past has been interpreted in new and modern ways form bigger conversations around where collectively as people we are going and how to get there,” explains the Joburg-based creative and co-founder of The Sartists whose work has been exhibited both at MoMA and Brighton Museum. Lephoto first launched his menswear label in 2016 and has consistently mined heritage style as a way to educate and celebrate his culture.

 
 
 
 
 

“This season, we explore how the Zion Christian Church uniform, which is strictly made of Khaki browns and a naval hat, is derived from the British safari suit. And we look at the Shembe church uniform, which consists of iBeshu (a Zulu traditional hide flap worn by Zulu men) worn with a white shirt, skinny tie and blazer… Although years later the oppression has gone, the fabric of these influences and impact still remains.”

 
 

The remarkable accompanying campaign shoot features both his mother and father in key looks, the former in an elegant gingham dress and applique rain coat, the latter in workwear inspired by what gold miners wore to toil during Apartheid. Elsewhere, and with strong tailoring throughout, there are nods to school uniforms, cricket attire and Celtic wools fused with Swenka-style suiting and seersucker shirts.

 
 
 
 

No doubt LePhoto’s most accomplished offering to date, the designer is also among the curation of Black-owned labels currently stocked at Black Space, a new retail concept at select Nordstrom stores across Canada and the US. A well-deserved nod of recognition for this talent whose designs are as considered as they are fly.

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Photography Aart Verrips
Styling Chloe Andrea Welgemoed
Art direction Chloe Andrea Welgemoed & Aart Verrips
Hair Mimi Duma Ncumisa
Make-up Tammi Mbambo
Assistance Oratile Moh and Lebogang Ramfate

Cast
Nebula Thobejane,
Martha Lephoto,
Clement Xaba,
Nkuley Masemola,
Kgothatso Matlala,
Ketia Kalala,
Active Brian,
Gabriel Zenani

Words Helen Jennings

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Published on 04/05/2021